The only thing I suggest in addition is not to use clear nail polish, as it
cracks and yellows over time, leading to the loss of the number. Look up UP,
Light Impressions, Gaylord &c for their already mixed combinations of B-72
Acryloid (or whatever name it is going by these days) in acetone (some
people use toluene or xylene, but these solvents are greater health risks).
This material is much more stable.

As for marking wood - I know it's a quandry! I usually try and look for some
metallic hardware to mark, but they aren't always forthcoming on wood
objects.

Rebecca L. Fifield
Collections Care Specialist
Department of Textiles and Costume
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

www.mfa.org

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim McShane [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2000 3:58 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: Marking of Objects


Ah, the numbering question.  It's a contradiction, really; you want the
pieces to be permanently numbered, but in a way that doesn't interfere with
the object's historic material so it can be removed, if necessary.  It
should be in a discreet location, but one that can be easily found.

I use nail polish and ink on most items.  First a small patch of clear nail
polish is applied to the artifact--somewhere that won't be too noticeable if
the object is put on display, but can still be visible when the artifact is
in storage to minimize handling (mostly on the back side of an artifact,
near the bottom; then I store the artifacts on shelves with their back sides
facing the aisle)  Try to avoid placing the number on the bottom of the
object; this will require that the artifact be picked up to read its number.
For larger objects, such as furniture, I also attach a paper tag with a
large, easily readable number; these are removed when the piece is
displayed.

Back to the nail polish.  Once it is dry, apply the number with a dip pen
and a good quality drawing ink (I like Pelican, but there are a number
available; check with an art or drafting supply store).  I have both black
and white ink in my "tool kit;" use the one that will provide the best
contrast.  Once the ink is dry, apply a second coat of clear nail polish to
protect the ink.

The nail polish is best applied to metal, so it can be easily and completely
removed, if necessary.

To number paper artifacts, use a pencil.  Nail polish will permanently
attach itself to paper, and this is something to avoid.

This raises a question that I have wondered about for some time; what's the
best way to number wooden artifacts?  If nail polish is applied to a
varnished wood surface, the varnish will be affected if ever the number has
to be removed.  On unfinished wood, the nail polish will soak into the wood.
I've tried to use pencil on wood, but the number is usually difficult to
read.  Any thoughts from other listers?

For small objects, I've seen them put into small plastic boxes, and the
number applied to the box.  As for "valuable" objects, treat them just the
same as other pieces in your collection.


Tim McShane, Collections Manager
West Parry Sound District Museum

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