The only thing I suggest in addition is not to use clear nail polish, as it cracks and yellows over time, leading to the loss of the number. Look up UP, Light Impressions, Gaylord &c for their already mixed combinations of B-72 Acryloid (or whatever name it is going by these days) in acetone (some people use toluene or xylene, but these solvents are greater health risks). This material is much more stable. As for marking wood - I know it's a quandry! I usually try and look for some metallic hardware to mark, but they aren't always forthcoming on wood objects. Rebecca L. Fifield Collections Care Specialist Department of Textiles and Costume Museum of Fine Arts, Boston www.mfa.org -----Original Message----- From: Tim McShane [mailto:[log in to unmask]] Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2000 3:58 PM To: [log in to unmask] Subject: Re: Marking of Objects Ah, the numbering question. It's a contradiction, really; you want the pieces to be permanently numbered, but in a way that doesn't interfere with the object's historic material so it can be removed, if necessary. It should be in a discreet location, but one that can be easily found. I use nail polish and ink on most items. First a small patch of clear nail polish is applied to the artifact--somewhere that won't be too noticeable if the object is put on display, but can still be visible when the artifact is in storage to minimize handling (mostly on the back side of an artifact, near the bottom; then I store the artifacts on shelves with their back sides facing the aisle) Try to avoid placing the number on the bottom of the object; this will require that the artifact be picked up to read its number. For larger objects, such as furniture, I also attach a paper tag with a large, easily readable number; these are removed when the piece is displayed. Back to the nail polish. Once it is dry, apply the number with a dip pen and a good quality drawing ink (I like Pelican, but there are a number available; check with an art or drafting supply store). I have both black and white ink in my "tool kit;" use the one that will provide the best contrast. Once the ink is dry, apply a second coat of clear nail polish to protect the ink. The nail polish is best applied to metal, so it can be easily and completely removed, if necessary. To number paper artifacts, use a pencil. Nail polish will permanently attach itself to paper, and this is something to avoid. This raises a question that I have wondered about for some time; what's the best way to number wooden artifacts? If nail polish is applied to a varnished wood surface, the varnish will be affected if ever the number has to be removed. On unfinished wood, the nail polish will soak into the wood. I've tried to use pencil on wood, but the number is usually difficult to read. Any thoughts from other listers? For small objects, I've seen them put into small plastic boxes, and the number applied to the box. As for "valuable" objects, treat them just the same as other pieces in your collection. Tim McShane, Collections Manager West Parry Sound District Museum ========================================================= Important Subscriber Information: The Museum-L FAQ file is located at http://www.finalchapter.com/museum-l-faq/ . You may obtain detailed information about the listserv commands by sending a one line e-mail message to [log in to unmask] . The body of the message should read "help" (without the quotes). If you decide to leave Museum-L, please send a one line e-mail message to [log in to unmask] . The body of the message should read "Signoff Museum-L" (without the quotes). ========================================================= Important Subscriber Information: The Museum-L FAQ file is located at http://www.finalchapter.com/museum-l-faq/ . You may obtain detailed information about the listserv commands by sending a one line e-mail message to [log in to unmask] . The body of the message should read "help" (without the quotes). If you decide to leave Museum-L, please send a one line e-mail message to [log in to unmask] . The body of the message should read "Signoff Museum-L" (without the quotes).