Jeannie Whited: Well, there was the one museum I visited (name withheld for soon-to-be-obvious reasons) that had a wonderful odor of decay in the WWI trench exhibit. In fact, there seemed to be a dead mouse rather near the exhibit.... strangely enough, the same was true of the Hotel Invalid aka the site of Napoleon's tomb in Paris. On a melancholy, rainy spring morning (several years ago) spent in the memorial, Josephine's crypt was empty "for renovation" and the WWI tomb (a beautiful casket surrounded by lanky, downcast french officers of iron) was giving off a vivid reminder of the frailty of flesh...not sure if it was man or mouse... laurel [log in to unmask]