Sounds good, unless Sintra is going to mbe used inside a case or vitrine with its own micro-climate. Sintra's manufacturers admit that their product is mad with PVC, which can release hydrochloric acid as the product -- even small signage -- oxidizes. Try 1/16" acrylic sheeting: plexiglas. It's inert, dimensionally stable and has all of the attributes in this application as Sintra -- without the possibility of outgassing a corrosive. Good Luck! Oliver Hirsch Hirsch & Assoc. Fine Art Services New York On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:00:26 -0600 Walter Reinhardt <[log in to unmask]> writes: > A very cheap and effective way to do labels is to print your label on > to > paper (you can use different colors and weights that are appropriate > to the > design) with a laser or inkjet printer. Use a transfer adhesive to > laminate > the paper onto a stiff substrate (we use mat board or thin sheets of > Sintra.) These can be attached to the wall with escutcheon pins or, > for a > cleaner look, stuck onto wall with transfer adhesive. One problem we > ran > into was when it was time to remove the labels attached with the > transfer > adhesive often times chunks of the wall (plaster, paint, et al, > Dennis > means it when he says it really sticks) would come with it. We > solved that > problem by attaching pieces of mat board to the wall with escutcheon > pins > and sticking the labels to the mat board. > > If you want your labels to contain graphic elements and color > consider > having the labels printed using a Lightjet or Lambda machine. These > are > large format photographic printers that use lasers to expose the > film. Both > can print 48". The Lightjet is limited to 96" in length. the Lamda > can print > unlimited length (as long as the roll of paper.) The output is very > high > quality. It puts ink jet and electrostatic to shame. The finished > surface > can be laminate with different types of products to protect it from > hands > and reduce glare. > > Probably more than you cared to read but I kinda got going. > > Wally > Texas Parks and Wildlife > [log in to unmask] > <mailto:[log in to unmask]> > > > these are my opinions and mine alone > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dennis Kois [mailto:[log in to unmask]] > Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 10:36 AM > To: [log in to unmask] > Subject: Re: exhibit label mounting problems > > We use two different adhesives depending on need. > For really > heavy-duty, > "never come off" adhesion we use 3M Transfer > Adhesive. This > comes in 6", > 12", 18" and 24" rolls which you apply, trim excess > off > edges, and smooth > down with an applicator (plastic spatula-like > device) to > ensure good > adhesion, and then peel the backing off and press to > apply. > This is like > the "crazy glue" of paper adhesives- never lets go, > but also > unforgiving if > you mis-align what you are applying- once it sticks, > its > stuck for good. No > second chances. The downside to this is price- a 50 > yard > roll of the 6" > adhesive is $120, 12" is $230, and 18" is $340 (bulk > prices). We also use > 3M PMA Adhesive (Positionable Mounting Adhesive > 568), which > also comes in > rolls. It is much cheaper (about $75 for a 50 yard > 24" > roll), and is good > for mounting labels that will remain inside a case > or where > they won't be > abused. It is similar to the other stuff, but is > repositionable like a > Post-It note until pressure is applied. You apply it > to the > paper, apply > the paper to whatever substrate you are using, then > roll the > whole thing > through a PMA Applicator, which looks like an > old-fashioned > clothes washer- > two hand-cranked rollers. Once it is compressed by > the > rollers, it is > fairly permanent. It does not, however, do well with > substrates that bend > (with humidity, etc, like mat board)- it will let go > and > wrinkle where the > curve occurs. > > Sorry this is so long- hope that helps. > > > Dennis Kois > Design Department > The Metropolitan Museum of Art > __________________________________________________ > > > ========================================================= > Important Subscriber Information: > > The Museum-L FAQ file is located at > http://www.finalchapter.com/museum-l-faq/ . You may obtain detailed > information about the listserv commands by sending a one line e-mail > message > to [log in to unmask] . The body of the message should > read "help" > (without the quotes). > > If you decide to leave Museum-L, please send a one > line > e-mail message to [log in to unmask] . The body of the > message > should read "Signoff Museum-L" (without the quotes). > > ========================================================= > Important Subscriber Information: > > The Museum-L FAQ file is located at > http://www.finalchapter.com/museum-l-faq/ . You may obtain detailed > information about the listserv commands by sending a one line e-mail > message to [log in to unmask] . The body of the message > should read "help" (without the quotes). > > If you decide to leave Museum-L, please send a one line e-mail > message to [log in to unmask] . The body of the message > should read "Signoff Museum-L" (without the quotes). ArchivalFraming ========================================================= Important Subscriber Information: The Museum-L FAQ file is located at http://www.finalchapter.com/museum-l-faq/ . You may obtain detailed information about the listserv commands by sending a one line e-mail message to [log in to unmask] . The body of the message should read "help" (without the quotes). If you decide to leave Museum-L, please send a one line e-mail message to [log in to unmask] . The body of the message should read "Signoff Museum-L" (without the quotes).