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Date: | Sat, 9 Jan 1999 15:34:07 -0700 |
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For those of you who asked about mannequins: I am forwarding an old
message that addressed the same question some time ago. I don't know if
the Cincinatti Art Museum is still making their "Stuffed Shirt"
pattern. It is essentially a life-sized rag doll made over a jointed
wooden frame. The pattern included instructions for the frame. The
Dress-Rite forms are relatively inexpensive ($200-$500 each) and can be
ordered in standard sizes or custom made. The Kyoto forms are lovely
but very pricey.
No matter what mannequin or form you use, beware that all have their own
quirks (for example, the Dress-rite forms, which I've used extensively,
tend to have the hip pushed back a bit.) These idiosyncracies can often
be corrected by reshaping--sawing away areas that are too large and
padding other areas. If you use contemporary department store
mannequins, be very careful. Ideas about attractive body type change,
and those changes are reflected in the mannequins. Mannequins being
produced today are quite different in proportion, gesture, and size than
those produced even 10 years ago. And mannequins made of fiberglass or
molded hard plastic (as most store mannequins are) can be quite
difficult to saw and reshape. Compare the measurements of the form to
the measurements of of your garments before buying.
Particular and common problems in using contemporary store mannequins:
-placement of supporting rod: in male mannequins,it is usually in the
ankle (the foot-rod), and often makes the circumference of the ankle too
large for narrow trouser legs. In female mannequins, the rod is usually
in the hip (affectionately called the butt-rod), and can make dressing
pants on the form difficult or impossible.
-width of the back and shoulders is usually too wide for clothing
before about 1940.
-waist level on females may be too long, and waist circumference on
males too large
-bust level and shape, and chest shape may be wrong for your period.
-wig style, facial expression, and make-up may be completely
inappropriate for the period you are dressing
-finally, most store mannequins are pretty WASPish looking.
Contact me if I can be of any further help.
Pat Roath
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