i know you know about textiles and interest in silks...so i didn't know if
you would be interested in this stuff






>Message viaDiedre Windsor, the Museum of Textile History, Textile
>Conservation Centre, Lowell , Massachusetts
>regarding your post on silk degradation:
>
>
> I would recommend you purchase the thesis of
>our first Mellon fellow's graduate thesis, "Weighted Silk: Identification,
>Characterization and Photodegradation"  Shawna Lemiski came to us after her
>graduate work at the University of Alberta, Edmonton.  It is a very thorough
>and practical exploration of the subject.  I think it is very reasonable in
>cost and is practically a book in itself.  You can contact Nancy Kerr about
>how to purchase it at: [log in to unmask]
>If you need a postal address it is: U of Alberta, Dept. of Human Ecology, 301
>Printing Services Bldg., Edmonton, Alberta, T6G 2N1 Canada.
>
>Michael Bogle
>Historic Houses Trust of NSW
>Sydney Australia
>
>
>
>
>>At 01:02 PM 10/5/1998 GMT, you wrote:
>>>Does anyone had problems with silk conservation ?
>>>The fact is that some silks get broked after some years while other
>>>qualities
>>>remain fine with no problems. I wonder if it is simply low quality or the
>>silk
>>>or is from colouring materials used on it ?
>>>Apparently fibres gets too dry and starts collapsing easily.
>>>Is there any "treatment" to be done before it starts breaking ?
>>>
>>>Thanks for the attention
>>>
>>>Emanuel
>>>
>>
>>Emanuel,
>>
>>Everyone has problems with silk conservation.  As Hodcarry mentioned, the
>>dyes and mordants (solutions used to fix colors) often caused long term
>>problems with silk, and, although less frequently, with cotton.  Silk,
>>however, has some unique sources of degradation.
>>
>>Silk quilts of the 1820's and 30's usually seem to be in better condition
>>than those of the later 1880's and 1890's. In order to stiffen the silk and
>>give it a a more substantial "hand", manufacturers of clothing would soak
>>the cloth in solutions of metal salts.  When dry the silk would hold the
>>billowy shapes desired at the time.  It also made the silk heavier.  This
>>became an important factor when the enormously popular fad for Crazy Quilts
>>started in 1884.
>>
>>For the next ten years there were so many crazy quilts being made that the
>>traditional source of fabric for quilts, old but not worn out dresses and
>>suits, could not come close to satisfying the demand.  Clothing
>>manufacturers and cloth sellers stepped into the breech by supplying bags
>>of scrap silk sold by the pound.  Anything that would add to the weight of
>>the silk would add to the profits of the merchants and less scupulous
>>purveyers even added iron filings  from the machine shop next door.
>>
>>Over the next hundred years the protein in the silk contributed electrons
>>to the slow oxidation reactions which changed the chemical and physical
>>properties of the fibers.  As a result the silk threads became brittle and
>>lost their tensile strength.  The process did not affect all silk fibers
>>consistantly: often the warp of the cloth is gone but the woof remains as a
>>feathery ghost of the original fabric.
>>
>>The first "treatment" is to avoid bending or rubbing any of the aflicted
>>silk.  A fine nylon netting is often sewn over deteriorated pieces to hold
>>them in place and limit further movement.  I do not know if there is a way
>>to remove the inherent vice of the chemical additives without severely
>>damaging the silk.  If anyone on the list knows how to do it, I would love
>>to hear about it.
>>
>>David Hupert
>
>Michael Bogle
>& Peta Landman
>& Ariel Bogle
>429 Riley Street
>Surry Hills, Sydney
>New South Wales
>Australia 2010
>(61) (2) 9212 7069



----------------

Angela L. Fox
Curator, American Indian Collections
Spurlock Museum
University of Illinois
E-Mail:  [log in to unmask]
Phone:  217-244-3900