Thom, 

Thanks for the info.
I'm compiling all the responses for reference and passing it along to some folks at work.

And yes, I am at Millhurst Mills in Monmouth County.
But it's in Manalapan. Millstone is about a mile or so down the road. 

Thanks again, 

Scott

Scott D. Peters
Historically Speaking


----- Original Message -----
From: Thom DiGregorio <[log in to unmask]>
Date: Sunday, November 21, 2004 11:19 pm
Subject: Re: Recommendations for hanging heavy framed pictures/mirrors

> Scott, et al...
> 
> My father was a glazier, as was his father, which means that as a 
> kid I grew up in the trade. (And by the way, my brother is also a 
> glazier!) Given that, I might as well throw my two cents into this 
> discussion! 
> 
> Wire? I wouldn't recommend it for the weights being discussed; 
> typically available picture wire is simply not designed to hold 
> the weight, it's risky even with multiple strands, and it tends to 
> be difficult/dangerous to level with multiple strands on multiple 
> hooks. 
> Angled cleats? (By the way, these are called "Z" cleats!) Several 
> people recommended these, and they work fine if the individual 
> cleats are solidly attached to both frame and wall.
> 
> With a typical frame (one not especially built to accommodate 
> cleats, or without a solid back), two sets of cleats may be in 
> order, solidly screwed into the upper and lower horizontal members 
> of the frame. The corresponding wall cleats should be screwed into 
> the wall's studs. If the cleats' ends don't align with a stud (and 
> you didn't span/catch three or more studs), use a plastic screw 
> anchor or toggle bolt, depending on the type of wall (drywall v. 
> plaster). 
> 
> There are three potential problems with using "Z" cleats (if a 
> frame isn't made to specifically accommodate them). First, the 
> frame will not lay flat against the wall, being offset by the 
> thickness of the cleat (0.75" min. solid stock), and thus, leaving 
> a noticeable gap when viewed from the side. Second, a set of 
> cleats must be straight (flat) with respect to one another, to 
> properly engage and hold. This becomes a problem when the wall 
> isn't straight, which means you have to shim-out the cleat to 
> compensate for the wall. And finally, the cleats must be dead-on 
> level. Once attached to frame and wall, you've only a very small 
> latitude for making any adjustments to level the picture/mirror: a 
> thin shim (cardboard, etc., but nothing too much thicker) can be 
> placed between the mating surfaces of the cleats, towards the end 
> of the cleat you wish to raise.
> 
> "D"-rings, turnbuckles, and hooks! This method of picture/mirror 
> frame mounting offers strength, as well as adjustability. A "D"-
> ring clip is screwed onto each of the vertical frame members, 
> approximately 75% up from the bottom of the frame. (This clip 
> consists of a "D"-shaped ring which pivots within a metal strap 
> that secures the flat portion of the ring. The strap accommodates 
> multiple screws for attachment, and should measure approximately 
> 1.5" to 2" long x 0.5" to 0.75" wide.)
> 
> Hopefully, the position of the "D"-rings on the frame will 
> coincide with studs in the wall. If that's the case, you can use 
> heavy-duty picture hooks (100# rating); simply fasten the hooks 
> with nails sufficiently long to solidly grab the studs. (Since the 
> nails are driven at a downward angle, they will not pull out.) If 
> the placement of the frame/"D"-rings do not coincide with the 
> wall's studs, you will have to use hooks that attach with screws. 
> Depending on the walls construction (drywall v. plaster), the 
> hooks are attached with either plastic screw anchors or toggle bolts.
> 
> One end of a suitably-sized turnbuckle is suspended from each of 
> the wall's hooks, while the other end grabs a "D"-ring on the rear 
> of the frame. (Start with both turnbuckles completely closed 
> down.) Adjust the frame's leveling by opening the turnbuckle on 
> the side to be lowered.
> 
> If you have any questions on this method, feel free to contact me.
> 
> ...Thom DiGregorio
> 
> PS: Are you at Millhurst Mills in Millstone Twp., Monmouth County, 
> NJ? 
> 
> 
> "Scott D. Peters" <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> I know this might seem like an oddball question, but I'm hoping 
> someone on the list could provide some practical advice on hanging 
> heavier (over 100 lbs.) framed objects. This would be in a 
> residential situation, so house museum curators would be 
> especially worth hearing from. At the moment I am "out of the 
> field" and working in a hardware store. I have some curatorial 
> experience, but most of museum work was in interpretation, 
> education and archival collection management. 
> Over the past few days, we have had a number of customers asking 
> for advice on hanging items framed pieces that are over 100 lbs. 
> Some well over 100 lbs. We do not carry wire that tests at more 
> than 100 lbs and the guys in our lumber department, who are 
> knowledgeable about most such things aren't too sure about how to 
> go about hanging these items other than going into the studs. From 
> my experience, the key to hanging such items is to secure two 
> hangers to the studs and, using heavy test braided wire, hang the 
> work on the wire so that the wire hangs as parallel as possible. 
> This distributes the load evenly with little in the way of stress 
> points that would cause the wire to weaken. And the majority of 
> the load is absorbed by the studs.
> 
> Can anyone verify if that is true, or recommend a preferred method 
> that i can pass along to our customers and to my co-workers? 
> 
> Thanks in advance. 
> 
> Scott D. Peters
> Historically Speaking
> (for the time being working for Millhurst Mills / Ace Hardware)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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