I have not read this entire thread, but in general, as Dave says, it depends upon what is currently on the floor.  In general, a high quality detergent in water should be OK.  If you can get it, I would use Soilax.  If not, (and I hate the name, as any reference to oil generally should be avoided with collections), Murphy's Oil Soap should be OK. 
 
If the finish is a hard resin (varnish, polyurethane, and so forth), your bigger problem over time will be wear of the finish, and when you need to "refinish."  With insoluble hard finishes, that means, on a commercial level, sanding and refinishing.  And that means a drum floor sander taking off 1/16 to 1/8 inch of wood.  For sanding, I would suggest a hand power sander commonly referred to as a finishing sander to take off only the finish and a tiny amount of wood.  Maybe, it is not even necessary to remove any wood, but just scuff and even the remaining finish to provide a good bond for the new finish.  Yes, this will take a bit more time, but allows the wood to survive perhaps 25 times longer, as with drum sanding, the wooden floor itself has to be replaced after perhaps 3-5 sandings due to thinning of the wood.
 
If the finish is a "soft" finish such as wax or shellac, that are reversible with solvents, damaged areas can be repaired individually without having to do the entire floor.  And this can be done with solvents and no sanding.  However, repairs most likely will have to be done more frequently as these materials do not stand up to wear as well.  So the choice is less frequently but more difficult/expensive/damaging or more frequently but easier/cheaper/less damaging.
 
Marc

American Conservation Consortium, Ltd.
     4 Rockville Road
     Broad Brook, CT 06016
     www.conservator.com
     860-386-6058
 
*Collections Preservation Consultation
*Conservation Assessments & Surveys
*Environmental Monitoring & Low-Tech Control
*Moisture Management Solutions
*Collections in Historic Structures
*Collections Care Grant Preparation
*Conservation Treatment of:
     Furniture
     Painted Wood
     Horse-Drawn Vehicles
     Architectural Interiors
     Decorative Objects & Folk Art
 
Marc A. Williams, President
     MS in Art Conservation, Winterthur Museum Program
     Former Chief Wooden Objects Conservator, Smithsonian Institution
     Fellow, American Institute for Conservation (AIC)
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: [log in to unmask] href="mailto:[log in to unmask]">David Harvey
To: [log in to unmask] href="mailto:[log in to unmask]">[log in to unmask]
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MUSEUM-L] cleaning hardwood floors in galleries

It depends on the type of floor (wood, stone, concrete, tile), how it is finished, and how soiled it is.

Most commercial floor cleaners have a high pH plus additives. I'd suggest using a detergent less aggressive, and perhaps diluting it more to the point where bubbles begin to form but don't foam.

If it's an historic floor a conservation surfactant/soap is probably a better choice, with a product like Vulpex or Triton. If it's a relatively modern floor with no historic or artistic furnishings or collections directly on the floor(e.g.furniture or sculptures),  something like Murphy's is acceptable if it's diluted down.

You also want to clean with a dryer damp mop when collections are present or nearby so as to minimize the amount of moisture that will be evaporating in the room if you have rH sensitive collections present.

Of course you should look into strategies to minimize the need to clean - from applying wax and buffing to isolate dirt from the floor to using area carpets and floor coverings for high traffic areas.

Also consider what people walk on before they come in the door. I've seen several historic buildings with sandy soil paths outside where the 200 year old wood door sills and floors near the entrances have literally been sanded down by visitors where the original wood has to be replaced. So always be proactive and consider ways of protecting original surfaces from what comes in on people's shoes.

Cheers!
Dave

David Harvey
Senior Conservator and Museum Consultant
Los Angeles CA
www.cityofangelsconservation.weebly.com

On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 7:01 AM, Zlotnick, Marta <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Hello, Dave,

When you say “a damp mop with a mild detergent,” do you have a specific detergent in mind?

Best,

Marta

 

From: Museum discussion list [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of David Harvey
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 2:55 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [MUSEUM-L] cleaning hardwood floors in galleries

 

Hi Everyone,

From a concerned Conservator:

Please - Do not use Vinegar (Acetic Acid) on floors in museums, historic houses, or galleries with collections. There are far better choices available than exposing your collections to fumes from an organic acid that corrodes lead and attacks other materials.

A  damp mop with a mild detergent is fine (be careful of water on unfinished floors).I am sure my colleague Marc Willams may have more to add here.

Cheers!
Dave

David Harvey
Senior Conservator and Museum Consultant
Los Angeles CA
www.cityofangelsconservation.weebly.com

On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 7:56 AM, Natalya Buckel <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Marta,

 

Do you mean cleaning them on a regular basis or a more thorough clean?  We simply vacuum our hardwood floors daily and polish them with Harrell's wax while we are closed in the winter (they can become very slippery!).  You can consult the National Trust's Housekeeping Manual for more specific guidelines.  At home I use a mixture of vinegar and hot water on my hardwood floors!

 

Best wishes,

Natalya

 

Smallhythe Place

National Trust

On Wed, Jul 17, 2013 at 9:46 PM, Zlotnick, Marta <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

Hi, everyone,

 

Could anyone recommend a product for cleaning wooden (finished) hardwood floors in galleries, without producing a museum-unfriendly environment?  I’d be happy to hear votes for plain water, too, if that’s what you use.

 

Thanks,

Marta

 

Marta Zlotnick
Registrar
Dumbarton Oaks
Washington, DC

 

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