Thank you to everyone for the helpful responses! We will certainly proceed
very carefully with this object.

Best,

Michele

On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 2:23 PM, David Harvey <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

> A caveat on the excellent reply from Marc.
>
> Ivory is extremely sensitive to changes in RH - splitting often happens,
> especially if there is a pin or bolster or other metallic or inorganic
> material affixed to the ivory. So RH must be lowered very slowly - ramped
> down no more than 5% at a time.
>
> Approach it like you are climbing a mountain and you need to ascend a
> litlle - take time to acclimate - the go up a little more - and so on. In
> order to do this you don't have to involve your whole HVAC system - because
> changing your RH set-point by 30%% in a whole collection can have lots of
> consequences - some good, some not so good. You can make an individual
> housing for the affected object and use pre-conditioned silica gel along
> with an RH indicator and slowly introduce higher or lesser RH in a very
> controlled way. I have done this when treating archaeological leather shoes
> hundreds of years old from wet well sites and also with dessicated brittle
> leather shoes recovered from 14,000 ft. mountains.
>
> Cheers!
> Dave
>
> David Harvey
> Senior Conservator & Museum Consultant
> Los Angeles CA
> www.cityofangelsconservation.weebly.com
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 10:30 AM, Marc A Williams <[log in to unmask]>wrote:
>
>> **
>> Michele,
>>
>> Mold will grow on almost any organic material if the conditions are
>> right.  In a collection, the only reason active mold is not found
>> everywhere is that the RH generally is below 70% most of the time.  If it
>> is not, mold will grow.  So, first, you need to look at the area where the
>> figurine was located and see if any other items have mold on them.  Then,
>> you need to lower the RH in that location.  In the mean time, put the
>> figurine in a lower RH, ideally 40%-50%, and the mold will become
>> inactive.  It will not become active unless the RH again goes too high.  If
>> the areas are small, and you are not particularly sensitive to mold, you
>> can remove it with a very slightly dampened cotton cloth or Q-tip.
>> Hopefully, if you caught it early enough, there will not be any staining of
>> the underlying surfaces.  Wear a respirator and gloves if you have health
>> concerns.  Again, everybody is different, but I have removed mold from
>> hundreds of objects and architectural surfaces without using a respirator
>> and have not had any problems.  That's just my personal experience, YMMV.
>>
>> This is a bit of an unusual time of year for active mold growth, at least
>> in locations where heat is required.  Usually, the RH this time of year is
>> low, even lower than desired for collections preservation unless
>> humidification equipment is installed.  So, be sure that it is actually
>> mold, and not, for example, degradation of some sort of coating or
>> treatment that was applied in the past.  If it is mold, it would be useful
>> to try and determine why that location had so much moisture present.  The
>> figurine may just be the canary in the coal mine, and is tipping you off to
>> another problem.  If you would like to provide some more details, I would
>> be happy to see if I can assist you further.  A detailed photo would be
>> helpful, but please email it directly to me and not the list.
>>
>> Marc
>>
>> American Conservation Consortium, Ltd.
>>      4 Rockville Road
>>      Broad Brook, CT 06016
>>      www.conservator.com
>>      860-386-6058
>>
>> *Collections Preservation Consultation
>> *Conservation Assessments & Surveys
>> *Environmental Monitoring & Low-Tech Control
>> *Moisture Management Solutions
>> *Collections in Historic Structures
>> *Collections Care Grant Preparation
>> *Conservation Treatment of:
>>      Furniture
>>      Painted Wood
>>      Horse-Drawn Vehicles
>>      Architectural Interiors
>>      Decorative Objects & Folk Art
>>
>> Marc A. Williams, President
>>      MS in Art Conservation, Winterthur Museum Program
>>      Former Chief Wooden Objects Conservator, Smithsonian Institution
>>      Fellow, American Institute for Conservation (AIC)
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Michele Frederick <[log in to unmask]>
>> *To:* [log in to unmask]
>> *Sent:* Friday, March 08, 2013 9:18 AM
>> *Subject:* [MUSEUM-L] Treating Mold on Ivory?
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> While working on an inventory of some objects in our collection yesterday
>> I found what I'm pretty sure is live mold on an elephant figurine. The
>> figure is wood but the tusks and eyes are ivory, and except for a few spots
>> over the body, most of the mold was growing on the ivory tusks. I've
>> isolated the object, but we are at a loss about how to attempt to kill the
>> mold without damaging the object. We have a small freezer that we've used
>> to treat works on paper and textiles in the past, but are worried about
>> what freezing something made of these materials could do. Has anyone had to
>> deal with this problem before and has some suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks so much,
>>
>> Michele
>>
>> --
>> Michele L. Frederick
>>
>> MA, Art History and Museum Studies
>> Curatorial Assistant, College Art Collections
>> Berea College
>>
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-- 
Michele L. Frederick

MA, Art History and Museum Studies
Curatorial Assistant, College Art Collections
Berea College

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