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Is the tractor an accessioned object being kept in non-operating condition or a tractor that is still being operated? Are the tires original equipment to the tractor or period replacements while it was still in use, or modern replacements? Is the concern to preserve the tires themselves as examples of period tires or to preserve the tires to physically support the tractor (operating or non-operating?).

Many WW II era tractors still have original equipment tires on them with original tread patterns that are very nice to keep whether the tractors is being operated or not. If the tires happen to be wartime-made synthetic rubber (look for red dots on the sides) then they may still be in very physically stable condition and may last a long time into the future even if still being used. The wartime synthetic rubber is amazing stuff.

There are quite a few newly made reproduction tractor tires available now with original-style tread patterns made from old molds that have been re-discovered still in use in foreign counties (where they were shipped when the patterns became obsolete in the US) and from new molds made to serve the ever growing collectible tractor hobby market. Depending on what your situation with the John Deere tractor is, you might want to consider saving the old tires by removing them from the tractor and placing them in the best storage conditions possible and replacing them with modern reproductions. The entire wheel assemblies could probably be swapped out relatively inexpensively for a tractor model as common as most 1946 John Deere models.

Tire companies also sell various tire coatings that can provide a sealing effect to reduce oxidation and to blacken the tires to restore the cosmetic appearance. Tire putty is also available to re-sculpt damaged areas. None of these are museum conservation treatments, of course, but they may be options to consider depending on what the status is of the tractor and its tires within your museum's collection.

Supporting vehicles on jack stands does minimize the chance for the tires developing a flat spot and for sidewall cracking. If a vehicle isn't supported on jack stands, then moving the vehicle or rotating the tires by jacking the vehicle up temporarily can also help minimize the physical deformation of the tires. After years of talking with tire manufacturing representatives and dealers and numerous veteran restorers and collectors, it seems that tires actually survive the longest if they are rolled occasionally with weight on them because it causes the chemicals originally blended into the rubber compound to reduce oxidation and deterioration of the tire to work from the inside to the outside as designed by the tire maker. When tires site without being used, the outer surface "dries out" and "dry rot" works from the outside in with oxidation. The best preserved tractor tires I've personally seen after surveying literally thousands of collectible tractors over the years are tires on tractors that were left covered in mud and occasionally put to light use annually. The flexing of the tires ever so often when the vehicle is moved around some appears to help to slow deterioration of the rubber compound to a degree as was designed by the makers. Obviously this isn't a museum conservation treatment but this is what the observation of collector vehicles provides as interesting evidence of the possible long life under certain conditions of a rather inherently hard-to-preserve category of things. Some tire paints applied long ago by owners have seemed to provide similar surface protection against oxidation as the mud mentioned above. Again, I'm not recommending this as appropriate for accessioned museum vehicles, but it is interesting to see the occasional set of very old tires still in excellent condition when a particular set of circumstances has occurred.

One of the biggest agents of deterioration found in tractor tires is calcium chloride solution ("water") pumped into the tires to add weight (ballast) for pulling power. Calcium chloride is highly corrosive to the tractor rims and wheels once it leaks out the valve stem or any holes in the inner tube. If your tractor's tires happen to still have "water" in them it would be best to get it removed by a professional tire service company.

Greetings! I am wondering if anyone can offer advice on how to treat/preserve old farm equipment. We have several large pieces including a manure spreader, seeder, and a few wagons. Unfortunately, we do not have room in our barn for storing these pieces during the winter months so we have been covering them with tarps. The donor had previously treated these pieces by brushing old motor oil on the metal and creosote on the wood. One other source suggested brushing the metal with WD-40 and treating the wood with an equal parts mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine.

Thankfully, the donor is willing to pay for any chemicals/supplies necessary, as well as new tarps. Are the methods listed above acceptable, or is there a better way to treat these pieces?

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Many thanks for any suggestions or advice!

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