Suzanne

 

I am sorry to hear of your problems. I can sympathize with your mold problem! Between living in SE Texas and surviving Hurricane Rita, I feel like I know more about mold than I would like.

 

Forgive the basic format, but I think in steps. Most of these things you have already done I am sure.

 

1) Mold is dangerous – especially black mold. Take every precaution when in its company. Ideally, hire mold remediators who have specialized insurance to treat and eliminate the problem. If you, your staff or the public contract a mold-borne illness once you have identified the presence of mold, law suits can be devastating.

 

2) Hire a professional to identify where mold is. It may be behind wallpaper, in insulation, duct work etc.

 

3) If the mold is limited to a small area, contain/seal off that area and do not permit anyone to enter without suitable protective clothing (and insurance coverage!). Maintain air circulation there as best as you can. We do have a recipe that we have used to eliminate mold in isolated areas of the McFaddin-Ward House after hurricane rita, but it sounds like the mold you have in your basement is much more pervasive than what we experienced. I WOULD HIRE A PROFESSIONAL!

 

To kill mold and mildew, mix 2/3 cup Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP) cleaner, 1/3 cup powdered detergent, 1 quart laundry bleach, and 3 quarts warm water and apply the solution-while wearing gloves and goggles-to the area with a medium scrub brush. Keep the surface wet until the stain has bleached; then flood with water.
 Old House Journal
  

 

This recipe worked well on McFaddin-Ward House furniture and woodwork (not used on gilded wood). If you do go with this route for filing cabinets and the like, protective clothing, masks and goggles are a must. Painted woodwork is ok, but work from the bottom up. Drips on dry walls may cause bleached marks.

 

I do not recommend that you try to remediate mold on your own. Dare I say that I hope that you had sufficient insurance coverage to bring in trained professionals?

 

As for the contents, I do not recommend air drying contaminated “contents”. Documents should be sealed and frozen until a paper conservator can take care of them (but this should have been done within 24 hours. It may be too late for optimum results now). If they air dry on their own, many problems can arise that are difficult to correct. (http://www.extension.umn.edu/info-u/household/BK263.html  ) If I start to address what I would do with other materials, it would take too long to describe a course of action.

 

Disaster recovery agencies such as BMS-CAT can help with major disasters. We have a contract with them.

 

As for a HEPA vacuum, I would start with a basic wet/dry vac, because anything you use to remove mold should never be used again for other applications – unless they can be sterilized completely. A wet/dry vac can be cleaned with watery bleach at least.

 

So much depends on your specific needs, so what I have mentioned may not apply to you or anyone else. Each case is special and would require tailored action. Feel free to contact me directly if I may answer specific questions about our disaster recovery from Rita.

 

Good luck to you.

 

Best,

Ware

 

L.W.S. Petznick, Ph.D.

McFaddin-Ward House

Curator of Collections

725 Third St.

Beaumont, TX 77701

[log in to unmask]

www.mcfaddin-ward.org

409.832.1906 p

409.832.3483 f

 

The McFaddin-Ward House is currently showing the exhibit "Moving In," which illustrates how the McFaddins first moved in to their new home at 1906 McFaddin Avenue in January 1907. Call 409-832-2134 for tour information.

-----Original Message-----
From: Museum discussion list [
mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Suzanne Soden
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 10:17 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Flood in Northeast - Help

 

 Hanford Mills Museum received a significant amount of damage due to the recent flood.  (you can go to www.hanfordmills.org to see photos).  The mill had a wall collapse causing the entire basement to flood.  The mill structure itself is being engrossed with mold.  All the objects are also molding.  We are currently using another building to salvage any objects we can.  We are trying to find a de-humidifier for the room, as well as currently running as many fans as possible.  I've places as many fans as possible in the mill itself too.  I hope to find a vacuum with a HEPA Filter to start vacuuming the objects once they are dry.  So, my question is what else should I do.  With very little time and not much money is there a simple solution I can use on both the objects and the building to stop the mold.  Mostly I am dealing with wood.  There are some metals and leather and canvas as well.  Any information is greatly appreciated as I do not have much time to really do much research into it. 

Thanks in advance!

 

Suzanne Soden
Curator/Site Manager
Hanford Mills Museum
PO Box 99
East Meredith, NY 13757

 

 
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Morelli <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
Sent: Tue, 4 Jul 2006 18:06:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Question about archival paper

Hammermill and Fraser both have acid-free lignin-free laser printer papers.

It doesn't make a lot of sense to make a poor print last for centuries. If I were not using something marked "for laser printing" -- actually, even if I were --I would run some pretty careful comparisons if the quality of the image is important. Not all paper surfaces produce good laser images.

Peter

----- Original Message -----

From: [log in to unmask]);" title="[log in to unmask]">Allan Mccollum

To: [log in to unmask]);" title="[log in to unmask]">[log in to unmask]

Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 11:11 PM

Subject: Question about archival paper

 

Hello all,

I wonder if anyone can help me ... I've been planning a large project that involves making prints with my laserprinter, using reams of letter-sized, neutral-pH, archival, 100% cotton rag paper. I've been planning on around 2500 printouts, which will be framed and exhibited, as artworks. The images contain large, flat, black areas.

After months of planning, and facing a deadline, and to my horror, I've discovered that such archival paper comes with very obvious watermarks, which disrupt the surface, and are plainly visible in the black areas, ruining the effect I'm after. Apparently the paper manufacturers think the watermarks make a classy impression. Well, maybe for archive records and certificates, but not for "artworks" with large, flat black areas! I've tried Hollinger archival and Permalife, they both carry these disruptive watermarks.

Does anyone know of a manufacturer that produces "plain" (generic?) archival letter-sized paper WITHOUT intrusive watermarks?

Best,

Allan
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