Scott, et al...
My father was a glazier, as was his father, which means that as a kid I grew up in the trade. (And by the way, my brother is also a glazier!) Given that, I might as well throw my two cents into this discussion!
Wire? I wouldn't recommend it for the weights being discussed; typically available picture wire is simply not designed to hold the weight, it's risky even with multiple strands, and it tends to be difficult/dangerous to level with multiple strands on multiple hooks.
Angled cleats? (By the way, these are called "Z" cleats!) Several people recommended these, and they work fine if the individual cleats are solidly attached to both frame and wall.
With a typical frame (one not especially built to accommodate cleats, or without a solid back), two sets of cleats may be in order, solidly screwed into the upper and lower horizontal members of the frame. The corresponding wall cleats should be screwed into the wall's studs. If the cleats' ends don't align with a stud (and you didn't span/catch three or more studs), use a plastic screw anchor or toggle bolt, depending on the type of wall (drywall v. plaster).
There are three potential problems with using "Z" cleats (if a frame isn't made to specifically accommodate them). First, the frame will not lay flat against the wall, being offset by the thickness of the cleat (0.75" min. solid stock), and thus, leaving a noticeable gap when viewed from the side. Second, a set of cleats must be straight (flat) with respect to one another, to properly engage and hold. This becomes a problem when the wall isn't straight, which means you have to shim-out the cleat to compensate for the wall. And finally, the cleats must be dead-on level. Once attached to frame and wall, you've only a very small latitude for making any adjustments to level the picture/mirror: a thin shim (cardboard, etc., but nothing too much thicker) can be placed between the mating surfaces of the cleats, towards the end of the cleat you wish to raise.
"D"-rings, turnbuckles, and hooks! This method of picture/mirror frame mounting offers strength, as well as adjustability. A "D"-ring clip is screwed onto each of the vertical frame members, approximately 75% up from the bottom of the frame. (This clip consists of a "D"-shaped ring which pivots within a metal strap that secures the flat portion of the ring. The strap accommodates multiple screws for attachment, and should measure approximately 1.5" to 2" long x 0.5" to 0.75" wide.)
Hopefully, the position of the "D"-rings on the frame will coincide with studs in the wall. If that's the case, you can use heavy-duty picture hooks (100# rating); simply fasten the hooks with nails sufficiently long to solidly grab the studs. (Since the nails are driven at a downward angle, they will not pull out.) If the placement of the frame/"D"-rings do not coincide with the wall's studs, you will have to use hooks that attach with screws. Depending on the walls construction (drywall v. plaster), the hooks are attached with either plastic screw anchors or toggle bolts.
One end of a suitably-sized turnbuckle is suspended from each of the wall's hooks, while the other end grabs a "D"-ring on the rear of the frame. (Start with both turnbuckles completely closed down.) Adjust the frame's leveling by opening the turnbuckle on the side to be lowered.
If you have any questions on this method, feel free to contact me.
...Thom DiGregorio
PS: Are you at Millhurst Mills in Millstone Twp., Monmouth County, NJ?
I know this might seem like an oddball question, but I'm hoping someone on the list could provide some practical advice on hanging heavier (over 100 lbs.) framed objects. This would be in a residential situation, so house museum curators would be especially worth hearing from. At the moment I am "out of the field" and working in a hardware store. I have some curatorial experience, but most of museum work was in interpretation, education and archival collection management.
Over the past few days, we have had a number of customers asking for advice on hanging items framed pieces that are over 100 lbs. Some well over 100 lbs. We do not carry wire that tests at more than 100 lbs and the guys in our lumber department, who are knowledgeable about most such things aren't too sure about how to go about hanging these items other than going into the studs. From my experience, the key to
hanging such items is to secure two hangers to the studs and, using heavy test braided wire, hang the work on the wire so that the wire hangs as parallel as possible. This distributes the load evenly with little in the way of stress points that would cause the wire to weaken. And the majority of the load is absorbed by the studs.
Can anyone verify if that is true, or recommend a preferred method that i can pass along to our customers and to my co-workers?
Thanks in advance.
Scott D. Peters
Historically Speaking
(for the time being working for Millhurst Mills / Ace Hardware)