Visiting Korea for the ICOM Conference This information was prepared primarily for UMAC delegates visiting Korea for the first time in October 2004. It was written by Peter Stanbury, Chair of UMAC, who visited Korea in mid July. He was shown many relevant sites by generous Korean hosts from several universities. His comments may also be of use to other ICOM members going to Seoul, but his impressions are those acquired over just three days, and inaccuracies are his errors alone. Seoul is a large city in which more than 20 million people live. In fact Seoul is the world’s third biggest city, beaten only by Tokyo and Mexico City. The surrounding area, like much of Korea, has picturesque small hills. The city is divided by the Han River, which is crossed above ground by many bridges and the extensive subway system. The COEX Centre in the lower third of the city is south of the river. As in other big cities, traffic is a problem and modern buildings outnumber older ones. Korea has embraced the technology and style of the west, but has retained a few older customs such as bowing when meeting or leaving the presence of an equal or superior colleague or customer. However, many of the old customs and ways have disappeared with the older buildings, particularly as far as the young are concerned. One suspects that the loss of these is one reason why the theme of the conference is Traditional Culture and Intangible Heritage. The 80 or so university museums in Korea’s 100 plus universities specialise in presenting the material history of the country from the Palaeolithic era through the Bronze and Iron Ages, into various Kingdom and Dynasty Periods right up to the last century. Archaeological sites, metal objects, pottery, timber, paintings, writings, maps, musical instruments and clothing predominate in the displays. A typical example is found in the museum at Hanyang University in Seoul where Kidong Bae is Director (also Secretary General of the Organising Committee for ICOM 2004 and Chair of the Korean Association of University Museums, KAUM). Many Korean universities, like those in the west, also have contemporary art collections. The university museums in major universities are housed in separate exhibition galleries in specifically constructed spacious buildings with well-designed public facilities. National Museums have similar, but more extensive displays. Historic buildings, gates, parks, palaces and temples and folk museums are to be found throughout the country. Most people will arrive through Incheon International airport. This is a very large single building with 60 departure gates and more shops than you could visit in an hour or so. There is free internet access in the transfer lounges upstairs. There are also places to exchange money and to hire or buy phone cards. (If you are using international roaming, check carefully that it works in Korea before and upon arrival.) In the Arrival Hall look for the ICOM information desks. Quarantine is strict. Declare (or preferably do not bring into Korea) any fruit, meat or agricultural products. From the airport to the city takes about one hour. The simplest method is to catch the City Air Limousine to the City Air Terminal that is attached to the COEX Centre. The bus fare is 12,000 won single and 22,000 won return. (1 US $ equals about 1,150 won.) If you are staying in a more distant hotel ask at one of the tourist desks at the airport for the name of the hotel to be written in Korean so you can proceed by taxi from the COEX Centre to your destination without hassles. Translating Korean names into English is complex and different spellings abound. The sound of the word may often more reliable than the spelling. The COEX Centre, where the main ICOM Sessions will be held is huge. It has its own shops, transport terminals, hotels and numerous other facilities. A word or two on Korean food: at a traditional Korean meal one eats with metal chopsticks and a spoon; food is served separately in large or small dishes placed on the table from which one helps oneself. There may be many courses, the largest of which comes near the end of the meal. Meat is usually cut into small pieces, but fish is often served whole. A number of varieties of soup, including a popular one made from seaweed, are also usually served. Rice can be served steamed or cooked longer and served with soup. Kimchi is a spicy, hottish pickle made from cabbage and/or ginger, radish and garlic. Like chili, it pays to try a small quantity first to see if it is too your taste. (A further piece of advice: one removes one’s shoes when going to a traditional restaurant, a temple, a private house, a Korean bedroom, so wear shoes which are easy to remove and presentable socks.) Korean beer and wines are excellent. Wine may be mixed with various herbs, allegedly to promote long life, and provide an interesting range of taste. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Change ICOM-L subscription options, unsubscribe, and search the archives at: http://home.ease.lsoft.com/archives/icom-l.html