Thanks very much for the corrections. I did mean B-67 but missed the number. Another curator had suggested adding pigment to the B-72 (or B-67) and I took that as tried and true. It never occurred to me that it would then be a paint. But I'm glad you mentioned the alternatives. I will keep it on file for our renumbering project. I'm glad I blundered here instead of in our museum. Thanks again and sorry for the mistakes.
Meredith
Virginia Beach Historic Houses
3131 Virginia Beach Blvd.
Virginia Beach, VA 23452
Phone: 757-431-4000
Fax: 757-431-3733
Email: [log in to unmask]
________________________________
From: Museum discussion list on behalf of Marc A Williams
Sent: Tue 11/28/2006 5:11 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [MUSEUM-L] application methods for unfinished wood
Meredith, I beleive you mean B-67? If so, it would be fine for wooden
objects, particularly unfinished ones as in the querry. However, it will be
a bit harder and riskier to underlying surfaces to remove in the future than
B-72. I'd stay with tried and true B-72 for this specific purpose. In my
opinion, the paper removal will be no problem - just dissolve the B-72 and
off it will come. It staying in place is more of a concern.... I suggested
off-list B-72 followed by various paints as an alternative. That way, a top
coating is not required. Golden MSA acrylics would flow well, but plain old
artists' acrylics are fine.
I'd suggest that you be careful with pigment added to the B-67 (or B-72), as
effectively you will have made a dilute paint. Removal can be very
difficult from pores or absorbent surfaces.
Marc
American Conservation Consortium, Ltd.
4 Rockville Road
Broad Brook, CT 06016
www.conservator.com
860-386-6058
*Collections Preservation Consultation
*Conservation Assessments & Surveys
*Low-Tech Environmental Control
*Moisture Management Solutions
*Collections in Historic Structures
*Conservation Treatment of:
Furniture
Painted Wood
Horse-Drawn Vehicles
Architectural Interiors
Marc A. Williams, President
MS in Art Conservation, Winterthur Museum Program
Former Chief Wooden Object Conservator, Smithsonian Institution
Fellow, American Institute for Conservation (AIC)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Meredith L. Dunham" <[log in to unmask]>
To: <[log in to unmask]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MUSEUM-L] application methods for unfinished wood
Just a few thoughts:
Is there a reason you don't want to use the B-69? It works very well and
you can add pigment to either the B-72 or the B-69 that helps label objects
that are dark in color. My concern would be, how hard would it be to later
remove that type of B-72/paper label in 5 or 10 ten years. Maybe it won't
be difficult, and maybe it will. I've never read anything about that type
of labeling in all of my research (our museum is going to have to re-label a
significant portion of our collections, some of which are finished and
unfinished), but that doesn't mean I've read every source there is.
Meredith Dunham
Curatorial Assistant
Virginia Beach Historic Houses
3131 Virginia Beach Blvd.
Virginia Beach, VA 23452
Phone: 757-431-4000
Fax: 757-431-3733
Email: [log in to unmask]
________________________________
From: Museum discussion list on behalf of Amy Leonard
Sent: Tue 11/28/2006 11:29 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: [MUSEUM-L] application methods for unfinished wood
Hello everyone, we were trying several different methods for B72 marking on
unfinished wood objects. We found a great method (we think) involving a B72
bottom layer then writing the # on acid-free tissue paper and applying it
with another B72 top layer. Is there any reason we should hesitate to
implement this method? Any issues we need to consider? The corners seem to
be staying down as long as they're soaked through with B72.
________________________________
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