The use of "white-out" and clear nail-polish for labeling artifacts is
really not appropriate from a conservation point of view. Both white-out
and the nail-polish will age and with time can degrade and lift-off.
Acetone is a very polar solvent and it's use can affect finishes. The
standard conservation material for labeling is 10% to 20% Acryloid B-72
resin (Paraloid B-72 in the UK). This resin is clear, non-yellowing and
it has an extremely long life - it will not degrade and lift off. You
also must be very careful of using inks for labeling. Many inks are
acidic and can actually etch the number right into the surface of a
wooden or metal object. A water soluable non-acidic ink or gouache paint
should be used - after drying a top coat of B-72 goes on and that's it.
 
The NPS standardized it's labeling with these materials back around 1988.
 
The labeling of textiles, paper objects, etc. is an entirely different
matter.
 
Dave Harvey
Conservator of Metals & Arms
The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
P.O. Box 1776
Williamsburg, VA 23187-1776
804-220-7039
 
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On Fri, 26 Aug 1994, Holly Young wrote:
 
> In reply to the following message,
>
> >Date: Thu, 25 Aug 1994 11:29:53 -0700
> >From: Anita Cohen-Williams <[log in to unmask]>
> >Reply to: Museum discussion list
> >     <[log in to unmask]>
> >To: Multiple recipients of list MUSEUM-L
> >     <[log in to unmask]>
> >Subject: 3-dimensional documentation?
> >
> >I'm replying to the list, since I think that it is important for all.
> >   In order to document where things are in a room, it is best to photograph
> >the room from all angles, and then draw a diagram showing where everything
> >currently is. If the room is crammed, it might be best to draw a series of
> >maps/diagrams in order to fully document everything.
> >   Then, as artifacts are removed, full proveniance should be noted, i.e.
> >saddletree from far north corner (see map #x). Or, the artifacts can be
> >numbered on the diagram and then marked when they are removed (the markings
> >can be small numbers on the bottom or back of the artifact). We mark items
> >with white-out and then use a Micron Pigma pen with waterproof ink, and
> >cover
> >the ink with a coat of clear nail polish. The beauty of this marking
> >system isthat it can be removed with acetone.
> >        I hope that this is helpful. If you have any questions, let me
> >know.
>
> >Anita Cohen-Williams; Reference Services; Hayden Library
> >Arizona State University, Tempe, AZ  85287-1006
> >PHONE: (602) 965-4579              FAX: (602) 965-9169
>
> Please do not use any latex based "correction fluids" for labeling
> artifacts.  In practice, they are not durable, nor are they truly
> reversible for porous materials (low-fired, unglazed ceramics, wood, bone,
> weathered shell, etc.) or artifacts with a surface finish, such as
> furniture.  I have seen more damage caused by uninformed cleaning,
> labeling, packaging, and reconstruction techniques than I care to think
> about. Catherine Sease's book Field Manual for Archaeologists (or is it
> Manual for Field Archaeologists?) is an often cited, accessible, readable,
> and useful guide for the treatment and care of a wide variety of materials.
>
> Holly Young
> Pueblo Grande Museum
> 4619 East Washington Street
> Phoenix, AZ  85034
>
> [log in to unmask]
>