Just a couple of remarks about the solutions mentioned. Do not forget that
in normal use leather is expsed to humidity and we rub in water constantly
with our own body. Once the objects are only on show this input of water
falls away. One characteristic of oils (and soap) is that it pushes water
away (they do not mix very well). When we continue to put oils in the
leather we will end up with a dry leather. Because the oils look nice the
leather looks healthy. Problem starts when the oils start to cross-link,
which will happen on all oils). Then the leather becomes stiff, even
though it looks healthy. Bending it will break it. What we must not forget
is that healthy leather only needs around 5% of oils and at least 12% of
water.
So be carefull in adding oils (and soap). Do try humidifiing products we
use for our skin. It is after all the same material.
As said in the last reaction try on less conspicuous items or parts first.
And do not trust on regular revisiting of the items once you have treated
them. There will allways be other priorities to take your time.

In storing the items the following must be taken into account:
- leather can be reshaped and distorted under its own weight. So for
storing (and for exhibitions) make sure you spread the weight.
I prefer to have it stored as it is used, giving extra support t the heavy
parts.
- leather can stand quite some T and RH changes but I prefer to have the
leather relative humide (up to 60% will do it no harm) rather then dry.
This alo solves a part of the problem mentioned earlier.

Last remark about cleaning metals. Do not use Brasso or any other chemical
cleaner. Again in day to day use the movement will get rid of the salts
ans other products coming from Brasso. Stored and exhibited items do not
move that much and the treatment will result in big (green) lumps of durt
and salts between the buckles and the leather. Salt is abrasive so this
will hurt the surface of the leather.

Please do not forget the difference in use of objetcs in museums and at
home before you use good housekeeping solutions on static objects.

First figure out what happens in day to day use and why this particular
housekeeping trick works. It is like a short citation from a statement,
when taken out of context it might be counterproductive.

Sorry for the ramble

Jaap van der Burg
[log in to unmask]

> I've often seen discussion about cleaning historic leather, but I don't
> remember seeing information about what the best way to store it is. Can
> someone direct me to some useful resources?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jillian Adams
> Loring-Greenough House
> Jamaica Plain, MA
>
>
> At 10:11 AM 5/17/2004, you wrote:
>>As a former rider and now a museum curator, let me offer a few comments.
>>Deb is partially right in my opinion.  But before you do anything, you'll
>>want to consider, are these items going to be considered "use" items (not
>>meaning that you'll actually put them on a horse, but that they are
>>'consumable.' )  If you continue to leave these items in a barn or
>>outbuilding, no matter how much 'stuff' you put on them, they will
>> continue
>>to disintegrate and rot.
>>
>>To clean, Orvus paste (available in most farm supply stores) is the
>> mildest
>>non-ionic soap you can get.  That means it doesn't leave residue on the
>> item
>>and it isn't very caustic.  Glycerin soap is what I used to clean my tack
>>when I was showing, but I'd never use it on collection items.  Also,
>> PLEASE
>>don't use Lexol.  I never used it on stuff when I was showing, and I'd
>> never
>>put it on collection items.  Other oils yes, but not Lexol...as I recall
>> it
>>has a lot of 'junk' in it.
>>
>>Finally, depending on the age and condition of the leather, sometimes you
>>just CAN'T bring it back.  So be prepared to spend a lot of time on this
>>project and still have them looking awful!?!
>>
>>So back to the beginning...before you spend a lot of time trying; to
>>determine the best way to clean things, I think you need to resolve the
>>philosophical question of 'Are these collections we should be preserving
>> in
>>our museum?" or "Is this 'set decoration' that is expendable.
>>
>>Good luck!  Best, VivianLea
>>
>>VivianLea Stevens
>>Curator, Old Barracks Museum
>>609-396-1776
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Museum discussion list [mailto:[log in to unmask]]On
>> Behalf
>>Of Deb Fuller
>>Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 10:12 AM
>>To: [log in to unmask]
>>Subject: Re: Cleaning historic leather for a living history farm
>>
>>--- SG <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>> > I have recently been charged with cleaning a collection of early 1900s
>> > saddles, bridles and harnesses. These objects will be displayed in a
>>living
>> > history museum. Does your institution clean leather?  If so, what
>> methods
>> > do you use?  Can you recommend any products that will not cause
>> long-term
>> > harm to leather?
>>
>>There's a bunch of cleaning products that you can use on leather which
>> will
>>keep it nice and supple and that any tack store will carry.
>>
>>The old "tried and true" method is glycerine soap and a bit of water. You
>>don't
>>want to soak the leather but just use enough water to work up a good
>> lather
>>with the soap and rub it
> in good. If it has a lot of dirt on it, use a damp
>>cloth to get the dirt off and then apply the glycerine soap. You don't
>> need
>>to
>>rinse it off. Let it air dry and wash it with the glycerine soap every
>>couple
>>of months to keep it hydrated.
>>
>>Glycerine soap comes in bar form and should be like $2 for a huge bar
>> that
>>will
>>last you a long time. Any sponge or rag will work for cleaning tack but
>> if
>>you
>>want to be "authentic", get a natural sponge. Tack stores sell a variety
>> of
>>tack cleaning sponges too.
>>
>>There is also a liquid form in a spray bottle called "Leather New" which
>>works
>>great! Just spray it on and work it in with a rag or sponge.
>>
>>If the leather is really dried out, you will want to follow-up using an
>>leather
>>conditioner or oil. Use sparingly as too much will rot the stitching.
>>Needsfoot
>>Oil is another old stand-by which some people don't like because they
>> claim
>>it
>>will rot your stitching. Again, if you don't soak your leather in it,
>> you'll
>>be
>>fine. I usually apply oil with my hands and really work it into the
>> leather.
>>Lexoil is another product that works well.
>>
>>Horseman's One-Step is a nice cream which will both clean and hydrate
>> your
>>tack. Good stuff. Tack Master and Leather Therapy are also good products.
>>Hydrophane is sticky, but buffs out nicely. Vogels Leather Conditioner is
>>expensive and best left for riding boots instead of saddles. Specific
>> saddle
>>companies like Stubben and Passier have leather cleaning stuff but again,
>> it
>>tends to be expensive and doesn't work any better than good old glycerine
>>soap.
>>Stay away from leather handbag cleaner as it's formulated for fine
>> handbags,
>>not saddles.
>>
>>Some people use Old English Furnature Polish. I've used it as well and
>>haven't
>>had any problems with it but haven't quite gotten over using furnature
>>polish
>>for leather.
>>
>>A guy who works on my sidesaddle recommends something called "Flexlan" (I
>>think.) I haven't gotten any yet but my sidesaddle is from the 1920s and
>> has
>>stayed in excellent shape with just glycerine soap.
>>
>>If mold forms on your leather, don't worry. It won't hurt it. All of us
>> at
>>the
>>barn get moldy saddles in the Summertime with the humidity. Just wipe it
>> off
>>with a damp cloth and use a dehumidifier if you can. Again, you don't
>> want
>>to
>>use too much water as that will just encourage the mold. I've heard that
>> a
>>quick wipe with Listerine will help cut the mold but haven't tried it.
>>
>>There are a bunch of other products out there but all in all, I think you
>>can't
>>go wrong with the glycerine soap. My only caveat is that if you have a
>> light
>>colored leather (unlikely given the age of the pieces), try out your
>>products
>>on like the underside of the piece to make sure it won't darken your
>>leather.
>>I've never had this happen with older leather as the light tan color is a
>>relatively modern thing as all leather will natually darken with age so I
>>don't
>>think it will be a problem with your stuff.
>>
>>Oh for bits and metal pieces, good old plain Colgate toothpaste and a
>> soft
>>toothbrush does wonders. (And gives you horse minty fresh breath too! :)
>>Brasses can be polished with "Brasso" but steel parts do fine with
>>toothpaste.
>>
>>Old leather is extemely resillent stuff and usually comes back to life
>> with
>>a
>>little TLC. You might need to wash and oil it a few times to get it soft
>> and
>>supple again but afterwards, it should feel like butter. Once you've got
>> it
>>back in shape, it doesn't need much to keep it there, just the occasional
>>cleaning.
>>
>>Oh to have good leather like that again! The modern stuff is mostly all
>> crap
>>these days from cheap tanning processes and lack of demand for good
>> leather.
>>My
>>sidesaddle that's nearly 100 years old has far better leather on it than
>>most
>>new saddles today and will probably outlast them all too. *sigh*
>>
>>Good luck!
>>
>>Deb
>>
>>
>>
>>
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