I would really hesitate on using plywood for textiles, it outgasses
horribly (worse than plain wood) and textiles are very very sensitive to
that, especially if they are not in boxes. Shellac and latex paint will
outgas themselves, even after a significant drying period and are not a
strong barrier for the plywood. Even if items are not touching the shelves,
the air will be iffy. Marvel seal is a very good, more inert sealent, as
long as there are as few punctures as possible (it can be stapled on
without too many holes) and there are paints that outgas less
(unfortunately I can't remember the manufacturer). Corex (also called
coroplast) is great, cheap and very inert. It also comes in transparent and
has multiple thicknesses. You can also make good strong boxes out of it. It
isa great suuport and
barrier material.
If there are any feathers or similarly fuzzy things, they should be in
boxes to prevent and reduce dust accumulation. Anything large and flat
should be rolled with a layer of tissue throughout. Be sure to have items
stuffed or mounted with cotton and tissue also (and buckrum in hats) with
as few folds as possible.
I know that ideal is not possible, but you have to be really careful with
textiles, I have only ever seen metal shelving in costume collections. A
local textile conservator could give you local distributors and more advice
also. I know there should be plenty in Northern VA.
Elizabeth Walton
NYU Costume Studies M.A.
At 04:58 PM 3/27/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Because of the large response I received about how to make cheap textile
>storage, I will reply on the list.
>
>Credit belongs to Rick Kerschner of the Shelburne Museum in Shelburne,
>Vermont.
>
>1. Build a box out of plywood to the dimensions you need. For instance, 4'
>wide x 6' high x 2' deep. Leave the front facing you open.
>2. Cut pieces of 1"x 2"x 2' or 2" x 2"x 2'. Mount these spaced evenly
>down the inside of each wall. (Visualize
>a bookcase if you will)
>3. Coat all wood with BIN shellac. Let dry thoroughly, then paint with
>coat of latex paint. Let air cure for as long as possible.
>Now for the shelves . . .
>4. Go to a plastics supply company or a sign supply company or even just a
>sign shop and purchase sheets of corrugated plastic, trade name Cor-X. It
>can be purchased in sheets 4'x8' and it is very inexpensive. It comes in
>colors, but white is my choice. It looks like cardboard, but is plastic
>and it's safe! It's easy to clean, too. It won't be strong enough to
>support weight by itself, even cut to smaller sizes, but all you need do is
>again cut some 1"x 2" to fit around the edges underneath to act as frames.
>Since these pieces won't come in contact with artifacts, no need to seal
>with shellac or paint.
>These framed pieces of Cor-X are your shelves that slide right in onto your
>1"x 2"x 2' or 2" x 2"x 2' runners. The front frame piece also acts as a
>good handle to grip to pull the shelf forward for viewing.
>
>Mr. Kerschner actually has this type of shelving in use at his museum. So
>I feel very secure knowing it is safe for textiles, at least until a
>benefactor provides funding for "proper" storage.
>
>Hope this helps!
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Carolyn Payne
>Exhibits Designer
>Virginia Museum of Transportation
>303 Norfolk Av. SW
>Roanoke, VA 24016
>www.vmt.org
>
>Ph: 540.767.4643
>Fax: 540.342.6898
>E-mail: [log in to unmask]
>
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