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Subject:
From:
Ware Petznick <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Museum discussion list <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Fri, 26 May 2006 16:19:43 -0500
Content-Type:
text/plain
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Dan-
Unfortunately I know of no test to ensure that all the orvus is gone,
other than to do several rinses and ensure that there are no bubbles or
viscose "slime" left. I can give you some guidelines below that might
help, but there is no magic wand for it that I know of. I can say that
the standard recipe below has worked well on most occasions... a few
times the bubbles remained. So, I rinsed until the bubbles were no
longer - being careful to not directly agitate the textile with the
water pressure but to buffer the flow from the object in the tank.

Laundering with Orvus

If washing colors or prints, test an inconspicuous area with distilled
water. If color doesn’t run, it may be washed. Repair tears and holes
before washing. Extremely fragile items should be encased in nylon net
before washing. A fragile quilt can be washed by sewing it between two
sheets and tacking it here and there. If we do not have adequate tubs
and drying facilities for large items in house, they should be cleaned
by a textile conservator such as Bryce Reverley of Gentle Arts in New
Orleans.

Washing:
First, soak item to be washed in a bathrub or large enamel bowl filled
with warm water. Mix desired amount of Orvus paste in a cup of lukewarm
water until dissolved. (Use ˝ - 1 tablespoon per gallon of water). Add
to warm water in tub. Smooth item out flatly to remove wrinkles. Orvus
paste is a soft solid when cool and an amber liquid when warm. It gives
equally satisfactory results either way.

Whites:
For white items only, add 1 tablespoon of (sodium perborate) per gallon
of water. Mix with water in a cup until dissolved and add to tub. DO NOT
rub spots. Fibers are weak whenever there is a spot. You may end up with
a hole! Soak items at least three hours. Very dirty items may need
soaking overnight or for several days. If this is necessary, change the
water and paste/powder several times.

Rinsing:
Rinse six times – no less! Soap residue will yellow and will cause
deterioration over time. The final rinse should be in distilled water.

Drying:
Do not wring. Gently squeeze out water and roll item in a white towel to
absorb excess water. Dry flat on a sweater drying rack if possible or a
sheet of glass or plexiglass, being careful to not snag the fibers.
Antique fabrics should not be dried in the sun.

Thought this would be useful to the list... In haste I did't complete
the last sentence... if you would like to discuss this Dan off-list,
please call me.

Ware


L.W.S. Petznick, Ph.D.
McFaddin-Ward House 
Curator of Collections
725 Third St.
Beaumont, TX 77701
[log in to unmask]
www.mcfaddin-ward.org
409.832.1906 p
409.832.3483 f
 
The McFaddin-Ward House is currently showing the exhibit "Moving In,"
which illustrates how the McFaddins first moved in to their new home at
1906 McFaddin Avenue in January 1907. Call 409-832-2134 for tour
information.

-----Original Message-----
From: Museum discussion list [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On
Behalf Of Dan Bartlett
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 1:02 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: test for residual detergent?

Hello All:

Is there an easy way for to test for residual amounts of Orvus in the
rinse water when I'm cleaning a textile, or should I just rinse multiple
times and hope for the best?

Also, is there any suggested ratio of Orvus to water?  I'll be cleaning
a flag made of wool bunting.

Yes, I have done a spot test.

Thanks,

Dan

--
Dan Bartlett
Curator of Exhibits
Midway Village & Museum Center
Rockford, IL
--

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