Sue is right - this is the common method that we recommend in
conservation for numbering objects that are not soluble in acetone.

The principle is that everything is reversible - so the base coat is
B-72 in acetone. Once this dries I usually use a water soluble ink
(often gouache) and then when that dries I apply a top coat of
acryloid B-67 in mineral spirits. So if you only need to change or
modify a number you can selectively strip the top coat, easily change
or modify the number, without removing everything.

The main caveat is to be certain that the use of these solvents in a
small area on an object won't affect the integrity of the object
itself. This system works great on wood (except painted wood) and
metals but might be a disaster to employ on plastics, most of which is
seriously affected by almost every known solvent.

Also, your supplies of b-72 and b-67 will slowly evaporate their
solvents, so every couple of weeks apply just a smidge more solvent
into your jars and stir them up to keep them from getting dried out on
you.

Cheers!
Dave

David Harvey
Conservator
Los Angeles, California, USA

On 10/11/05, Susan L. Maltby <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Marielle:
>
> Try Soluvar.  The main ingredient in Soluvar (a Liquitex product) is Acryloid
> B-67.  B-67 is soluble in mineral spirits.  Soluvar is used to topcoat a label
> when there are solubility problems with the ink (e.g., mineral spirits does not
> usually dissolve an ink that is soluble in acetone). Soluvar is available from
> most art supply stores.
>
> Susan Maltby, Conservator
> Adjunct Professor, Museum Studies Programme
> University of Toronto
>
> Quoting Marielle Fortier <[log in to unmask]>:
>
> > Hello Museum-L members,
> >
> > I have a problem that I just can't get my head around.  For the last few
> > years I have been using b-72 and b-67 as my labeling layers (one for top and
> >
> > one for bottom). These had been made by my mentor in her lab.  At a previous
> >
> > job we had only used b-72 for a top and bottom layer.  Well my supply of
> > b-72 has hardened and my b-67 has yellowed so I ordered from University
> > Products Clear and white acryloid. Yesterday I used the clear acryloid for
> > the first time.  I let the bottom layer dry, used my handy pigma pen and
> > applied the number...let dry, or so I thought and went to apply the top
> > layer. The whole number came off as soon as the brush for the acryloid
> > touched it. ( I have experimented 3 times and still can't get the number to
> >
> > stay on safely between two layers) What am I doing wrong? (Besides using the
> >
> > same material for a base and top coat? Or is that my problem?)  Am I not
> > letting the pigma ink dry long enough, or is it as simple as not using the
> > product correctly.  Any insight will be much appreciated.
> >
> >
> > Marielle
> >
> > **********************
> > Marielle Fortier
> > Museum Registrar
> > Norwich University Museum
> > Northfield, Vermont
> > **********************
> >
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