This is one of the most popular queries that I get in my daily life in the conservation lab.  I would recommend the following:

* First - examine each silver object very closely before attempting anything.  Use a magnifying glass or magnified illuminator (lamp).  Look for hairline cracks, old polish residues, and any previous lacquer coatings.  Also look for active corrosion, particularly on the solder joins. You also may encounter grey blotchy spots which don't polish out - this is the underlying firescale (oxide) from the fabrication process which is visible due to wear.  Make notes.

* Second- acquire and read the following book & pamphlet - Caring for your Collections: Preserving and Protecting your Art and Other Collectibles, New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc. 1992 ; also acquire Preservation Guide 7: Silver, by Maureen A. Donnelly, The Historic New Orleans Collection, 1994  (*note - you have to call their gift shop to acquire this pamphlet).  Both of these publications include great "how-to" information on the care and cleaning of silver objects.  I also have written a series of informational pamphlet on the care of silver, copper alloys, pewter and tin, iron, firearms, and architectural metals.  Anyone whom is interested send me your address off of this list and I'll send a set out to you.

* Third- Be aware of the deleterious effects of polishes and water rinsing on other material in silver objects (such as coffeepot and teapots) such as ivory insulators and wooden handles.  If these organic materials can be carefully removed before polishing then do it.

* Fourth- If you encounter any problems beyond simple tarnish removal (ie., physical damages, active corrosion, etc.).  If gilding comes off - STOP! Call a conservator!  We are all friendly folks who will endeavor to offer advice. The American Institute for Conservation offers a free referral service and informational pamphlets - use this resource!  The American Institute for Conservation, 1717 K. Street, N.W., Suite 301, Washington D.C., 20006  (202-452-9545; [log in to unmask]

* Fifth- As you suggested, preventive care is essential.  Most tarnish occurs from sulphide and chloride pollutants in the air and in everyday materials in intimate contact with silver and metal objects.  Avoid rubber products, avoid wool, avoid paints which have volatile organic acids (such as acetic acid and formaldehyde)- the same rule applies to wood products such as low-grade plywoods.  Use silver cloth for storage or the 3m scavenger strips.  Use marvelseal on wood surfaces in display cases (avoid oil-based paints) and perhaps use a scavenger product such as Microchamber paper and silica gel in a tray beneath the display.  Most importantly - do not use commercial polishes, thoroughly remove all polish residues, and always wear clean white cotton gloves or unpowdered vinyl gloves when handling silver - avoid wearing those fancy white gloves with the tiny rubber dots, the rubber will corrode the silver!  The salt (sodium chloride) in your perspiration will corrode and etch fingerprints into the silver surface.

"Nuff said?

Cheers!
Dave

David Harvey
Associate Conservator,
Metals & Arms
The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
P.O. Box 1776
Williamsburg, Virginia  23187-1776  USA
Voice:  757-220-7039
E-Mail: [log in to unmask]

-----Original Message-----
From:   Wayne and Mary [SMTP:[log in to unmask]]
Sent:   Wednesday, May 06, 1998 4:47 PM
To:     [log in to unmask]
Subject:        Silver artifacts

We have a number of tarnished silver and silver plated
artifacts in our museum.  We would like to clean them up
for a better appearance.  What are the best ways to do this
without putting wear on the artifacts?  Is there anything
that we can do to prevent future tarnishing?

Thanks for any help you can give us.

Wayne Haegele
President, Kewaunee County Historical Society.