I have read quite a bit of research done on 19th century corsets.  You're
right, corsets were not generally tight laced, although enough women did or
were thought to that medical professionals and clergy kept up a constant
litany against such evils as tight lacing.  This can also be seen as a
simply a symbol for the sin of vanity, rather than reality.  There were also
extreme cases of tight lacing (one doctor conducted a study of young girls
trying to achieve 13-15 inch waists).  The media may have picked up on
this--think about the amount of press given to the "starving actresses" of
today and compare it to more statistical models that show America is fatter
than ever.  Small waists were fashionable but they could be achieved without
tight lacing--the cut of the clothes, the width of the skirt or the sleeves,
contrasting belts, all combined for an allusion.  Another study done on
corsets from a British Museum (the V & A?) found only a few that were 18
inches around when laced closed--most were 22-24 inches.  AND corsets were
never worn laced closed, there was always a gap of 2-5 inches left open.
So, clearly most waists approach modern norms.

How the modern idea got started is hard to pinpoint.  There were all the
medicos and religious of the time who constantly harangued women against
such vanity.  There is also Hollywood.  The image of Scarlet seems pervasing
(and copied in Titanic).  One fashion study noted that there has never been
any documentation (diaries, letters, etc.) to support the idea of holding
the bed post while being laced.  For one thing, all but the most wealthy
dressed themselves and corsets were laced so this was possible.  Remember,
Gone With the Wind is the era when actresses sewed buttons into their dress
fronts or applied ice just before going on for a sexier look.  Period
costumes were as much about the current styles as previous ones.

Women did occassionally faint, but this could be a health and nutrition
issue as much as a fashion one.  It was also fashionable in the 2nd quarter
of the 19th century to appear delicate and ill-some of the fainting may have
been planned.  And women did lace differently for different occassions.  A
normal day would leave, say a 4 inch gap, visiting or other public events
may require lacing an inch tighter, and for a ball women might lace 2 inches
more than usual.  This rare occurance of tight lacing combined with the
exertions of dancing and the heat of the ballroom could have contributed to
light headedness.  Other factors such as poisonous cosmetics, alcoholic
health remedies, and even synthetic dyes may also have played a part.

Tracking myths can be challenging.  One of the Utah State Archivists has an
ongoing newspaper column that debunks local history myths all over the
state--sometimes to the consternation of the locals.  Many costume history
researchers have addressed the corset issue.  Why it's still such a hot
topic, however, I've never seen discussed.

Sincerely,
Anne L. Foster
Director
Huntley Project Museum of Irrigated Agriculture
P O Box 353
Huntley MT 59037
phone: (406) 348-2533
fax: (406) 348-2534
email: [log in to unmask]

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