I used a TimBor application on the replica of a portion of a log cabin in a museum where I used to work, at the recommendation of a conservator and an exterminator.  I only found larva so was not able to absolutely identify the pest.  The conservator and exterminator said that it could be powderpost beetles so we treated for them.  I removed the artifacts and covered the surrounding areas with plastic.  Then I sprayed most of the cabin using a garden sprayer.  I brushed other areas where there seemed to be a lot of activity.  After the one application, there was no more frass or little worm-like creatures crawling across the carpet.  I think I bought it from the exterminator.  However, it was several years ago and you know what happens to the memory after too many years and too many museums.

Jerrie

Jerrie Clarke
Director
Sheldon Museum
PO Box 269
Haines, AK 99827
(907) 766-2366
fax: (907) 766-2368 
www.sheldonmuseum.org


--- On Wed, 6/4/08, Marc A Williams <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

> From: Marc A Williams <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: Powderpost Beetles
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Date: Wednesday, June 4, 2008, 9:04 AM
> Quick life cycle description of powder post beetles (also
> furniture beetles,
> as they are hard to tell apart, unless you have an adult to
> examine under
> the microscope): female adult beetle lays eggs on wood or
> in pores of wood;
> eggs hatch and larvae eat inside wood, generally following
> the grain; larvae
> pupates inside wood near surface;  adult beetle eats exit
> hole through wood
> and flies away; adult beetles fly around having a good life
> and mate; cycle
> begins again.
> 
> Vacuuming will not work, as the larvae are inside the wood,
> and you have no
> way to tell where they or the eggs are located.  The holes
> are exit holes,
> not entrance holes.
> 
> Two alternatives exist.  A professional exterminator can
> tent the building
> and/or object, and introduce fumigant for a controlled
> period of time.
> Generally, it is Vikane (sylfuryl fluoride).  To kill eggs,
> they must use a
> concentration 10 times that recommended for dry wood
> termites (you will need
> to specify this, as they may not know).  For most wooden
> surfaces, Vikane
> should be safe.  But be sure to read the manufacturer's
> fine print.
> Fumigation has the advantage of penetrating into all areas
> of the wood for
> more thorough kill.  However, it is not residual, and
> infestation can occur
> again in the future (remember, the beetles fly).
> 
> A second alternative is to apply a topical borate solution,
> such as TimBor
> to unfinished/unpainted wooden surfaces.  TimBor is a white
> powder dissolved
> in water that is brushed/sprayed onto the surfaces.  It can
> leave a white
> residue, so this may be inappropriate for some
> applications.  Since borates
> leave residuals, they will continue to prevent infestation
> in the future, as
> long as they aren't washed out of the wood by rain. 
> Generally, residuals on
> historic objects/surfaces are to be discouraged due to the
> possibility of
> poisoning humans, but a variation of borates was formerly
> used as a laundry
> detergent (20-mule-team Borax), so toxicity to humans is
> very low.  The
> disadvantage of this alternative is that you can only apply
> it where you can
> reach the wood.  You can not treat undersides of floors or
> beams/joists
> beneath floors that are on grade.  Another version of
> borates is Bora-Care,
> where they are carried in PEG (polyethylene glycol) that
> allows penetration
> further into the wood by natural moisture movement,
> according to the
> manufacturer.  However, you will be permanently introducing
> PEG, a variation
> of the same material used to treat waterlogged wood, which
> can alter the
> properties of the wood, for example, making it more
> difficult to finish or
> paint.  And, of course, conservators like to avoid
> processes that are not
> reversible.
> 
> If the wood is painted or finished, the borates won't
> work effectively, and
> the best alternative is fumigation.  I would guess that you
> have a moisture
> problem under the floor of the barn?  Moist conditions
> accelerate powder
> post beetle infestations.  If this is the case, drying out
> the environment
> will help prevent future infestation.  Hope this helps!
> 
> Marc
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: Museum discussion list
> [mailto:[log in to unmask]]On
> Behalf Of [log in to unmask]
>   Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 10:02 AM
>   To: [log in to unmask]
>   Subject: [MUSEUM-L] Powderpost Beetles
> 
> 
>   Does anyone have suggestions on getting rid of powderpost
> beetles on an
> object to big and heavy to freeze.  They have infested a
> wooden shingle mill
> and the floorboards of the barn around the area of the
> shingle mill.  There
> is no temperature or humidity control in the area.  One
> thought is to vacuum
> the object and the area, but my concern is that it will not
> get all the
> beetles or the eggs left behind from the females.  Is there
> an insecticide
> or pesticide that anyone would recommend on objects?   If
> we have to hire an
> exterminator, is there any products we should definitely
> avoid using?
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions or thoughts you can
> give me.
> 
>   Sincerely,
>   Suzanne
> 
> 
>   Suzanne Soden
>   Curator/Site Manager
>   Hanford Mills Museum
>   PO Box 99
>   East Meredith, NY 13757
> 
> 
> 
> 
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