Sounds good, unless Sintra is going to mbe used inside a case or vitrine
with its own micro-climate. Sintra's manufacturers admit that their
product is mad with PVC, which can release hydrochloric acid as the
product -- even small signage -- oxidizes. Try 1/16" acrylic sheeting:
plexiglas. It's inert, dimensionally stable and has all of the
attributes in this application as Sintra -- without the possibility of
outgassing a corrosive.
Good Luck!
Oliver Hirsch
Hirsch & Assoc. Fine Art Services
New York
On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:00:26 -0600 Walter Reinhardt
<[log in to unmask]> writes:
> A very cheap and effective way to do labels is to print your label on
> to
> paper (you can use different colors and weights that are appropriate
> to the
> design) with a laser or inkjet printer. Use a transfer adhesive to
> laminate
> the paper onto a stiff substrate (we use mat board or thin sheets of
> Sintra.) These can be attached to the wall with escutcheon pins or,
> for a
> cleaner look, stuck onto wall with transfer adhesive. One problem we
> ran
> into was when it was time to remove the labels attached with the
> transfer
> adhesive often times chunks of the wall (plaster, paint, et al,
> Dennis
> means it when he says it really sticks) would come with it. We
> solved that
> problem by attaching pieces of mat board to the wall with escutcheon
> pins
> and sticking the labels to the mat board.
>
> If you want your labels to contain graphic elements and color
> consider
> having the labels printed using a Lightjet or Lambda machine. These
> are
> large format photographic printers that use lasers to expose the
> film. Both
> can print 48". The Lightjet is limited to 96" in length. the Lamda
> can print
> unlimited length (as long as the roll of paper.) The output is very
> high
> quality. It puts ink jet and electrostatic to shame. The finished
> surface
> can be laminate with different types of products to protect it from
> hands
> and reduce glare.
>
> Probably more than you cared to read but I kinda got going.
>
> Wally
> Texas Parks and Wildlife
> [log in to unmask]
> <mailto:[log in to unmask]>
>
>
> these are my opinions and mine alone
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dennis Kois [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 10:36 AM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: exhibit label mounting problems
>
> We use two different adhesives depending on need.
> For really
> heavy-duty,
> "never come off" adhesion we use 3M Transfer
> Adhesive. This
> comes in 6",
> 12", 18" and 24" rolls which you apply, trim excess
> off
> edges, and smooth
> down with an applicator (plastic spatula-like
> device) to
> ensure good
> adhesion, and then peel the backing off and press to
> apply.
> This is like
> the "crazy glue" of paper adhesives- never lets go,
> but also
> unforgiving if
> you mis-align what you are applying- once it sticks,
> its
> stuck for good. No
> second chances. The downside to this is price- a 50
> yard
> roll of the 6"
> adhesive is $120, 12" is $230, and 18" is $340 (bulk
> prices). We also use
> 3M PMA Adhesive (Positionable Mounting Adhesive
> 568), which
> also comes in
> rolls. It is much cheaper (about $75 for a 50 yard
> 24"
> roll), and is good
> for mounting labels that will remain inside a case
> or where
> they won't be
> abused. It is similar to the other stuff, but is
> repositionable like a
> Post-It note until pressure is applied. You apply it
> to the
> paper, apply
> the paper to whatever substrate you are using, then
> roll the
> whole thing
> through a PMA Applicator, which looks like an
> old-fashioned
> clothes washer-
> two hand-cranked rollers. Once it is compressed by
> the
> rollers, it is
> fairly permanent. It does not, however, do well with
> substrates that bend
> (with humidity, etc, like mat board)- it will let go
> and
> wrinkle where the
> curve occurs.
>
> Sorry this is so long- hope that helps.
>
>
> Dennis Kois
> Design Department
> The Metropolitan Museum of Art
> __________________________________________________
>
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