>A quick question to the registrars & firearms curators on the list.
>I am wondering what current thought is about how to mark
>them with catalog numbers.
>Several enthusiasts I have talked to
>now recoil in horror at this, especially since it can muck up the finish,
>and a small difference in finish drastically affects the value and
>originality of the weapons.
>
>Any ideas and sources for special "hardware?"

>Byron A. Johnson

Byron,

My experience (as a former Registrar) has been with both black and
smokeless powder firearms, but I don't consider myself an expert.  When a
revolver has multiple, easily removeable parts, as in most cap-and-ball
revolvers (Colt 1860 Army, for example) it can be marked it on its
principle components, such as it's frame, cylinder, barrel, and trigger
guard.  These parts can become easily separated, so each probably should be
marked.  The frame is marked on its underside, the cylinder is marked on
whatever smooth surface available (engraved cylinders can be problematic),
the barrel is marked unobtrusively on its side, and the trigger guard is
marked on it's outside surface.  One can also number the backstrap.  In the
case of Colt cap-and-ball revolvers, backstraps are also detatchable.
Don't go overboard with numbering though.  Use good judgement.

Fixed ammunition revolvers should be marked on the frame underside,
backstrap, or trigger guard if the cylander is not detatchable.

Semi-automatic pistols, such as a 1911 Colt ACP,  should be marked on the
backstrap or trigger guard, but consistency should prevail.  Their
magazines should also be marked with the same number and an added "b" to
identify it as a secondary part.  Magazines should not be stored in the
weapon, but ajacent to it.  It can be in the same space, but should remain
unattached.  Firearms should also be stored with the safetys on, if they
have them.

Detatchable shoulder stocks should also be marked as secondary.

Longarms could be numbered on the receiver, preferably underneath if
possible.   Cleaning rods (if they came as components of the firearm) and
ramrods are also marked and designated as secondary parts.  Take extra care
when marking wooden ramrods.  As with semi-automatic pistols, magazines are
numbered, and stored separated.  All detatchable parts (scopes, slings,
magazines, bayonets, etc.) should be numbered and designated as secondary
parts.

Unless it is totally unavoidable, do not mark wood parts (stocks and
grips).  It's usually best to mark the metal parts, as wood is softer and
there is more of a danger of permanent surface damage.  Sometimes the grips
or the stock are the only smooth surface on a heavily engraved arm, and
must therefore be marked.  Take extra care when marking these non-metalic
areas.

I believe that museums no longer feel compelled to hide object numbers,
especially if there is no alternative.  The number should be unobtrusive,
but visible to collections staff persons with little or no handling of the
object while on exhibit.  While in storage, tags can be used in addition to
the numbers applied directly to the object.  Remember, tags can become
detached.  It is good the identyfy the object by name as well as by number
on the tag.  It is still accepted practice to number firearms directly, as
with most other museum objects.  The prevailing practices of the museum
profession outweigh the opinions of "enthusiasts."  When done properly, the
reversibility of the marking process makes it virtually impossible to "muck
up" the surface.  Using a reversible base coat before applying the ink
protects the surface from permanent damage and value depreciation.

Marking materials are varied.  I was trained many years ago in the use of
india ink and the steel pen in object marking.  I now prefer rapidograph
pens because ther are neater and more controllable.  B-72 or a clear
acrylic varnish are still recommended as base coats, as both are easily
reversible.  A top coat of B-72 or varnish applied over the number is
suggested to protect the number.  B-72 should always be used under a fume
hood or fume absorber (Labconco makes a good one), or in a very well
ventilated room.

If I missed something I'm sure my more learned colleagues will respond.
Please add (polite) comments.

Henry B. Crawford        Curator of History
[log in to unmask]     Museum of Texas Tech University
806/742-2442           Box 43191
FAX 742-1136             Lubbock, TX  79409-3191
*********All opinions expressed are mine**********