We installed UV film inside windows of one of our historic houses by using
spring rods, double stick tape, and film. Each window was a slightly
different size, so we measured each window, the cut the height of the
window, less 1/2", and we added 3" for each side, so that the width is 6"
wider than the window. We then put double stick tape along the side edge,
placed a spring rod slightly taller than the window casement height, rolled
the edge over the rod as tightly as we could and pressed down the tape. In
effect, you're sealing in the spring rod. Repeat on the other side, then
place the bottom of each rod in the casement at each side, press slightly on
the top of the rod and ease it into position. It helps to have two people
install them.
There is some leakage of light around the edge, but we have curtains in the
window that block the light. The film is easy to remove to clean the
windows. This method will not be as effective with large windows, but for
windows that are about 3' tall and 2-3' wide, it works great!
Martha Battle Jackson, Curator of Technology
North Carolina Division of State Historic Sites and Properties
Mailing Address: 4620 Mail Service Center, Raleigh, NC 27699-4620
Street Address: 430 North Salisbury Street, Suite 1115, Raleigh, NC 27604
919/733-3877; ext. 236; FAX: 919/733-9515
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E-mail correspondence to and from this sender may be subject to the
North Carolina Public Records Law and may be disclosed to third parties.
The views expressed by the sender may not reflect those of my agency.
-----Original Message-----
From: Museum discussion list [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf
Of HHSDIRECTOR
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 10:51 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [MUSEUM-L] Blocking Visible Light to Galleries
This is a very interesting discussion. At our historic house, we're looking
at an alternative to the plexi screens, but maybe we're doing something
wrong. We get moisture and bugs trapped between the screens and windows.
There are 50+ plexi screens on our historic house and getting them
un-installed and re-installed every year for cleaning is a big task. Plus, I
feel like we're beating up our window frames every time we take those screws
in and out. Additionally, they still let in a lot of bright visible if not
uv light. Should we be switching to the bronze plexi, or some higher-tech
version of the plexi screens? I was considering switching to roller shades
in a dense, light colored material until this discussion popped up.
Forgive the pun, but I could use more illumination on this subject.
-----Original Message-----
From: Museum discussion list [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf
Of Marc A Williams
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 2:08 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [MUSEUM-L] Blocking Visible Light to Galleries
I agree with Rick. Interior plexi or equivalent can be virtually
undetectable if installed with the same filtering capacity on all windows in
the room. It hasn't been mentioned (I believe) that a secondary benefit is
a contribution to stabilizing the environment, both the RH and T. Also,
this should lead to energy savings, so it is a triple benefit. The cost
also is relatively low, at least for materials. Another alternative is
mylar roll-down shades, either spring roller or chain drive. They have
small gaps at their sides, so are a bit more visible. They also do not
contribute as much to stabilizing the environment or saving energy. But
they are easy to install with only 2-4 screws usually.
Regardless of alternative, the real-world evaluation of colors that I have
been involved with for various client museums concurs with Rick in the
bronze color preference. In some installations, the rooms with the bronze
light protection actually looked brighter (they weren't actually) than
without light control - the same effect you get when putting on bronze sun
glasses.
Marc
American Conservation Consortium, Ltd.
4 Rockville Road
Broad Brook, CT 06016
www.conservator.com
860-386-6058
*Collections Preservation Consultation
*Conservation Assessments & Surveys
*Environmental Monitoring & Low-Tech Control
*Moisture Management Solutions
*Collections in Historic Structures
*Collections Care Grant Preparation
*Conservation Treatment of:
Furniture
Painted Wood
Horse-Drawn Vehicles
Architectural Interiors
Marc A. Williams, President
MS in Art Conservation, Winterthur Museum Program
Former Chief Wooden Object Conservator, Smithsonian Institution
Fellow, American Institute for Conservation (AIC)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Museum discussion list [mailto:[log in to unmask]]On
> Behalf Of Richard L. Kerschner
> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 12:48 PM
> To: [log in to unmask]
> Subject: Re: [MUSEUM-L] Blocking Visible Light to Galleries
>
>
> Trevor,
> We attach the moldings with finishing nails or screws. Not all of our
> interiors are historic, but we try to use a minimum number of
> smaller nails
> in the historic settings. Any window treatment is a compromise,
> so of course
> each building or even room has to be evaluated on a case-by-case basis. As
> far as appearance, we have found that they nearly disappear if the molding
> is properly installed and pre-painted to match the surrounding wood frame.
> Any tinting less than 50% is barely noticeable if all the windows in the
> room are covered. I would recommend against using any tinted window
> coverings only in selected windows of the same room as they will certainly
> be noticeable as compared to the untinted windows.
>
> I agree that any historically correct window coverings such as shutters,
> blinds, or curtains should be considered first especially if there is
> historical evidence for them in the room. All of these must also still be
> attached to the original woodwork in some way, and staff must be
> trained to
> operate them properly. With a large and changing staff of guides to cover
> our 40 buildings, we have found that a more permanent solution
> that does not
> depend on the human element for proper implementation on a daily or more
> frequent basis works best for us.
>
> In the end, it comes down to what is best for each particular site, and
> having many options in our bag of preventive conservation tricks
> is essential.
>
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