Just a few thoughts:
 
Is there a reason you don't want to use the B-69?  It works very well and you can add pigment to either the B-72 or the B-69 that helps label objects that are dark in color.  My concern would be, how hard would it be to later remove that type of B-72/paper label in 5 or 10 ten years.  Maybe it won't be difficult, and maybe it will.  I've never read anything about that type of labeling in all of my research (our museum is going to have to re-label a significant portion of our collections, some of which are finished and unfinished), but that doesn't mean I've read every source there is.
 
Meredith Dunham
Curatorial Assistant
 
Virginia Beach Historic Houses
3131 Virginia Beach Blvd.
Virginia Beach, VA 23452
Phone: 757-431-4000
Fax: 757-431-3733
Email: [log in to unmask]

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From: Museum discussion list on behalf of Amy Leonard
Sent: Tue 11/28/2006 11:29 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: [MUSEUM-L] application methods for unfinished wood


Hello everyone, we were trying several different methods for B72 marking on unfinished wood objects. We found a great method (we think) involving a B72 bottom layer then writing the # on acid-free tissue paper and applying it with another B72 top layer. Is there any reason we should hesitate to implement this method? Any issues we need to consider? The corners seem to be staying down as long as they're soaked through with B72.

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