I've been using this method for a few years, and only have seen problems
where the label has not been properly manipulated to fit the surface. For
example, on a curved surface it is necessary to curl the paper a little with
a fingernail to make it conform to the curve before adhering. As for your
shellac, the conservation world largely abandoned its use in the late 70's
and early 80's when Acryloid B-72 (or Paraloid B-72 if you're in the UK)
became established as the conservator's #1 choice for many applications.
Shellac is made from insect resin secretions, and when fresh is reversible
in ethanol. However, over time it deteriorates badly...crosslinking and
becoming very difficult to reverse, as well as becoming increasingly
brittle, dark and acidic. I would say the early 80's publications of
Stephen Koob, (now at the Corning Museum of Glass) put the final nail in the
coffin for shellac and the beginning of the golden age of B-72. Because the
glass transition temperature of B-72 is about 104 degrees F, I would not use
this labeling method in an archaeological field situation or where your
storage is going to get hot in the summer. (Higher Tg means the polymer is
more brittle at normal temperatures, lower Tg means the polymer can get
sticky or flow...therefore you would want a product with a higher Tg if your
storage space is going to heat up.) Working at an archaeological site in
Turkey, we labeled the objects directly. The pottery and other items
repaired with B-72 had to be kept in cooler areas of the site to prevent
slumping in the hot temperatures.
Hope this is helpful. There's nothing wrong with labeling the objects
directly.
Ellen Carrlee
Curator of Collections and Exhibits
Juneau-Douglas City Museum;
Carrlee Artifact Conservation
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tracie Evans [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
>Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 5:56 AM
>To: [log in to unmask]
>Subject: Re: acryloid B-72, white
>
>
>Ellen-
>I'm curious how long have you been putting these pieces of paper in the
>B-72. Does it last in the long term? I'm asking because at a
>previous site
>that I worked at, we have hundreds of thousands of objects
>done this way
>back in the 1950-1960s (but not with B-72 rather shellac) and most were
>loosing or had lost their object labels (peeled or just fallen
>off) making
>for a huge mess.
>
>Thanks
>Tracie Evans
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Ellen Carrlee [SMTP:[log in to unmask]]
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 7:07 PM
>> To: [log in to unmask]
>> Subject: Re: acryloid B-72, white
>>
>> I may have mentioned to this list that I like using white
>acid-free paper
>> with the number printed in a small font, adhered with clear
>B-72 and a top
>> coat. However, if you like your method and simply want to
>solve the lid
>> issue, cut a square of silicone-release mylar and put it
>over the top of
>> your jar, then screw the lid right over it. Dartek, thin
>mylar, even a
>> piece of thin plastic bag will help, but silicone release
>mylar works the
>> best.
>>
>> Good luck!
>> Ellen Carrlee
>> Curator of Collections and Exhibits
>> Juneau-Douglas City Museum;
>> Carrlee Artifact Conservation Services
>>
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Mandy Langfald [mailto:[log in to unmask]]
>> >Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 2:23 PM
>> >To: [log in to unmask]
>> >Subject: Re: acryloid B-72, white
>> >
>> >
>> >We have the same problem with our white B-72.
>> >
>> >I am actually considering going back to a clear base and white India
>> >Ink (I know, old school) once we have used this supply up.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >>>> [log in to unmask] 6/22/04 3:45:36 PM >>>
>> >Hi, folks,
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >I'm wondering if anyone else has this problem - the only white
>> >labeling
>> >medium that seems to be available right now is the acryloid B-72
>> >available
>> >from, I believe, University Products. My collections
>volunteers and I
>> >have a
>> >devil of a time getting the lid off. This sounds silly, but
>getting the
>> >jar
>> >open to label items involves a lot of hot water, use of a
>jar opener,
>> >and
>> >attempts by several individuals before we can break into the thing.
>> >We've
>> >tried leaving the lid on looser, but then the whole jar
>just dries up.
>> >We've
>> >also tried painstakingly cleaning the rim of the jar before
>closing it
>> >again, but that doesn't seem to do the trick either. We
>don't have the
>> >same
>> >problem with the clear, strangely.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Any ideas? Is it us? Should we be doing more bicep curls? Is there
>> >another
>> >product that is easier to get to that we should know about?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance!
>> >
>> >Erica
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Erica S. Maniez
>> >
>> >Museum Director, Issaquah Historical Society
>> >
>> >425/392-3500
>> >
>> >[log in to unmask]
>> >
>> >www.issaquahhistory.org
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >=========================================================
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>> >Mandy Langfald
>> >Curator of Collection
>> >Wyoming State Museum
>> >307-777-7033
>> >[log in to unmask]
>> >
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