Scott Reuter wrote:
> In my opinion, the most important thing to take into account before you
> design your pedestals is to make both the bottom and the top of the
> pedestals removable

other things to keep in mind:

1) think modular. Scale your "family" of pedestals so that
they can work together in a variety of arrangements, side by
side or at right angles, alone or in pairs. One system
may be to start with a 2' x 2' size as a "basic unit," and from
there make others based on multiples of that unit. Making them
this way also saves space when storing. Keeping their dimensions
in whole or half foot lengths makes it easier to remember later what
sizes you have. Of course, make your pedestals within doorway or
elevator dimensions so that you can move them easily throughout
your building. Also, make all your pedestals so that they can be
seen from all sides, even if you know they're going against a wall:
you never know!

2) think surface. You may want to keep a mix of pedestals:
some to be painted for color changes, some in a natural
wood finish that looks like "furniture" for your interiors, some
in durable laminates. Joints should be mitered, not butt or rabbet.

3) think portability. Besides making sure the pedestals have
"leg buttons" for ease of movement across floor types, you may also
want to design them with a 1" reveal about 4" from the top edge:
this not only visually "lifts" the upper part of the pedestal (into a
"visual deck" for the objects) but it also gives you a handy handle
for moving these things around (perhaps this "visual deck" could be
the removable top that Scott suggests). And don't forget a toe-kick:
besides visually "lifting" the pedestal from dull ponderousness, it will
save the rest of the pedestal from the wear and tear of moving, mopping, etc.
Again, perhaps this toe-kick could be the removable part of the bottom,
as Scott suggests.

4) think access. With at least one part removable, your pedestals
can accomodate applications for alarms, silica gel, etc.

5) think sideways. Consider how the pedestals can
also work for you if placed on their sides (for low displays, area
separators, supports for platforms, stacked).

6) think simple. A four-sided plain box will see you through more
general uses than an octagon with mouldings and bevels...

You didn't mention if you're using vitrines with these pedestals or not,
but if you are, it's easier to build the pedestals first and then have the
vitrines made to fit. The vitrines should fit into a groove on the pedestal's
top surface; that way, even without the vitrine the pedestal still looks
presentable with its top surface flush. Also, if using vitrines, consider
that they should be either tall enough to go above a viewer's field of vision,
or short enough to allow unobstructed views of the gallery (having a mix
of both is a good idea).

Ray
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