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From:
Deb Fuller <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Museum discussion list <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Fri, 24 Jan 2003 17:47:53 -0800
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Here's the summary of info I've gotten about Savannah. A big thanks to Jerry
Simmons, a Savannah native who gave me more info than any guide book out there.
Unfortunately, most of the hotels and B&Bs are booked for President's Day
weekend and the flights are a bit pricey (not to mention have many stops in
them from this area) so the bf and I are probably going to head up to
Lancaster, PA instead. It's close to us (we're in the DC/Balitmore area) so we
can drive and the inns are cheaper. Savannah will be saved for another time,
hopefully later this year.

--------------------------

The north boundary of the hist. dist. is the Savannah River. River Street is
the oldest cobblestone street immediately on the river. This street is
Savannah's
most popular tourist attraction as it is wall to wall restaurants, bars, shops,

and elegant hotels. The Hyatt Regency is one, and there are other smaller
hotels that over look the river. It is a "happenin' place", so be warned. It
gets
rowdy down on the river on the weekend nights. There is ONE large hotel across
the river on Hutchison Island. It is a Westin resort, and I doubt that its in
your price range. There is a large Mariott(?) conference center at the east end
of
River Street, but its not near anything nice.

Bay Street might be your best bet. River Street is on the river level, and Bay
Street is up on the famous Savannah Bluff, about 30 or so feet above the river
level. On Bay Street you will find a new Hampton Inn, the Mulberry Inn (I think

this is run by Holiday Inn), a Quality Inn at the west end of Bay Street, and a

large Days Inn (on Bay Street near the City Market ... another popular tourist
spot for shops, food, and tours). I think one of these hotels on Bay Street
would be your best bet ... you can walk to everything in the hist. dist., and
it
is well populated after dark. Broughton Street, four blocks south of Bay St.,
was Savannah's first business district, is experiencing a renaissance recently,

and has many new restaurants and antique shops.

I don't advise going to any of the hotels along Abercorn Street, south of the
hist. dist., or on Abercorn Extension Street, near the Malls. You would spend
all your time commuting to the downtown area. There is also the option of one
of
the really cheap beach hotels out on Tybee Island. They are cheap, but you
would have to have a rental car to go back and forth. You would also end up
paying
the meters to park in the hist. dist. each time you went downtown. Just stay at

a Bay Street hotel and enjoy the walking.

*Make sure to avoid hotels on or near West Broad Street (Martin Luther King,
Jr. Street). This is generally a bad area of town (sadly, even Savannah has a
"bad part of town") and you don't want to be there after dark.

Now, on to what I think you should see. I grew up in the Forest City (because
it is under a canopy of live oaks), so I can share some places you MUST visit
while in Savannah (sometimes called Sugar Town because we have the big Dixie
Crystals Sugar refinery up the river in Port Wentworth).

First ... take a horse-drawn carriage tour of the historic district. Just go to

the City Market and you will see the horses and carriages lined up. It is worth

the price, about $17 per person. They cover the big points in the hist. dist.
There are also a variety of walking tours, but the horse-drawn carriage tours
are so much fun and very relaxing.

Second, take a ghost tour AT NIGHT. The weather is always permitting in
Savannah, so night-time tours are no problem. There are some really
hair-raising ghost
legends in many of Savannah's homes. Try going to the Pink House Restaurant at
some point. The place is REALLY haunted.

Place where you MUST eat:

The Lady and Sons (Congress Street off of Franklin Square just behind the City
Market). You now must have a reservation because the owner and chef, Paula
Deen, now has her own show on Food Network. You used to be able to just go and
stand in line, but they are easily the most popular place to eat in the city,
and
you have to have a reservation. Make sure to order the buffet. The fried
chicken, hoe cakes, veggies are all Southern Style and delicious. Make sure to
try the
banana pudding or gooey cake for dessert. Everything is good here and well work

every penny spent. Get one of Paula's cookbooks while you're there. She will be

happy to autograph it for you ... she circulates through the dining room most
of the time.

Other places to eat:

The Wilkes Boarding House, West Jones Street, off of Whitaker. I will just
mention this place, but sadly, it is now closed. Sela Wilkes, a Savannah
institution in her own right, died this past October. She and her family had
run the
boarding house and the dining room for decades, and she is now a celebrity. She
was
just honored on the CBS Sunday Morning News along with other famous Americans
who passed away in 2002. The family closed the restaurant for the required
mourning period, but they have decided to close the business for good now.
Everyone
in Savannah is sad about this.

The Shrimp Factory (East River Street). Try their famous Pine Bark Stew, and
you must try a glass of Savannah's centuries old Chatham Artillery Punch. One
glass is more than enough. I could never drink more than two.

The River House (West River Street). Try their famous Pecan Pie. They are known

for their fresh fish dishes.

Elizabeth on 37th Street: Long-time favorite in Savannah run by renowned chef,
Elizabeth Terry. You will have to take a cab, and it is pretty formal, high-end

southern gourmet cuisine.

Johnny Harris - famous for barbecue. JH is on Victory Drive, well south of the
hist. dist., but this place is a favorite from my childhood. They are famous
for their Georgia-style bbq ribs and  their bbq lamb sandwiches.

Carey Hilliards - There are many in Savannah, the closest one to the hist.
dist. is on Skidaway road well south and east of down town. They have great
bbq,
Georgia-style Brunswick Stew, and simply the best onion rings IN THE WORLD!!!
They are also very unique as they are the oldest local restaurant chain in
Savannah that still has curb side service. They have great seafood as well.

Landmarks that you should see:

First, here is a URL for a really good hist. dist. map:

http://excursia.bestreadguide.com/savannah/maps/

There is a color .pdf file that prints well.

River street (location of the old cotton warehouses, Factors' Walk, etc.)

The Squares (just get a hist. dist. map and set out on your own. The walk is
simply wonderful.)

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, Abercorn St. on Lafayette Square. (I was the

archivist there back in the late 1980s. It is newly renovated and just
beautiful. If you can, go to the 10 am Mass on Sunday to hear the pipe organ.
My twin
brother is an usher there. The music is wonderful.)

Wesley Monumental United Methodist, Abercorn St. on Calhoun Square. I think
they have 11am service on Sunday morning. Also a fantastic pipe organ and
choir.
John and Charles Wesley were missionary Anglican priest for the Church of
England who arrived just after Savannah was founded ca. 1734. They establish
the
first Sunday School in America at Christ Church Episcopal on Johnson Square.
Calhoun Square is also the location of the Massie School ... the first public,
state
run, school in the United States.

St. John's Episcopal Church, Bull St. on Madison Square. Great Church, can't
speak for the music, but the parsonage/rectory is the famous Green-Meldrim
House.
This is the house that Gen. W. T. Sherman chose for his headquarters when the
union army occupied Savannah near the end of the Civil War. I think it is the
most beautiful house in the city. It has a ghost of a former servant, and an
one
of the earliest types of central air-conditioning in the stairwell.

Temple Mikve Israel, Bull St. on Monterey Square. The oldest synagogue in the
South, and the only one with Gothic architecture. I don't' know if you can tour

it, though. Their archives holds the oldest Torah in the United States, brought

by Jewish colonists to Savannah in 1734.

Mercer House, across Monterey Square, is the famous former home of Jim
Williams. He is the main character of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil
by John
Berendt. Jim William's shooting and killing of Danny Hansford was about the
most
scandalous thing that ever happened in Savannah. There is even a special tour
based just on this book. I think you can get that tour at the Hamilton-Turner
House. It was in the book as well ... the home of one of the characters. It is
located on Lafayette Square near the Cathedral.

Isaiah Davenport House, Habersham St., at Columbia Square. It was build in 1815

by a Rhode Island ship builder. It was the first house saved by the Historic
Savannah Foundation. I worked there from 1989-1990 as a weekend manager, and I
can tell you for a fact it has at least one ghost.

Owens-Thomas House, at Abercorn and State Streets, Oglethorpe Square. Designed
by William Jay, a prolific Savannah architect during the colonial period. Know
for its curved walls and doors, earliest indoor plumbing, and a ghost.

Hampton-Lillibridge House, on East Saint Julian Street off of Washington
Square, next door to the Old Seamen's Home and Chapel. Experts call it "The
Most
Haunted House in America." It is a private residence, but fun to walk by after
dark. The stories of this house are horrifying as it was moved from River
Street
many years ago where it had been a hospital for sick and dying sailors. It was
moved and renovated by Jim Williams of "Midnight" fame.

The Pirates House, corner of Bay and East Broad, where the Bluff ends in the
"Old Fort" section. This was the most famous restaurant in town for decades.
Unfortunately, the old fort on which the Pirates House sits started to collapse

about a year ago, so all the structures in what is known as Trustee's Garden
have
been closed. The restaurant is comprised of several very old buildings from
Savannah's earliest days. It was a haven for sailors and pirates, and has
several
subterranean tunnels leading from the houses to passages at the river front.
They kidnaped many drunken sailors onto ships here. Several people died there,
and the house and the tunnels are said to be heavily haunted. I just found them

on the web and gave them a call. They tell me that their renovations will be
finished soon and they hope to open on Feb. 3rd. They are famous for their
truly
Savannah style cuisine. My favorite has always been the pecan and honey
encrusted fried chicken. Very healthy!:)

Emmet Park and Factors Walk, runs along Bay Street East of City Hall (Gold
Dome). A beautiful park with a access to the old cotton warehouses and factors'

offices. The eastern most end has a great view of the river with the old gas
light
that was used as a harbor beacon. It is still used today. Below Emmet Park on
the east end of River Street is the statue of Florence Martus, Savannah's
Waving
Girl. Her story is "absolute Savannah."

Colonial Park Cemetery, the oldest designated burial ground in the city, at the

corner of Oglethorpe and Abercorn Streets. This is the burial place of many
famous Savannahians and Georgians. Button Gwinnett, a signer of the Declaration
of
Independence is buried there. It is only open in the day-time. It is EXTREMELY
haunted, and they have to close it at night to keep the voodoo folks away ...
seriously.

Bonaventure and Greenwich Cemeteries, a.k.a. the Garden of Good and Evil, in
the Thunderbolt (shrimping and crabbing) community, east of Savannah on
Bonaventure Road. Open only during the day, of course. I think it is the most
beautiful
of Savannah's cemeteries. It is really is peaceful with views of the Wilmington

River and avenues of moss-draped live oaks and azaleas. My family is buried in
the newer section, and we often times go to have picnics there. Sounds somewhat

creepy, but many people do it because it is so beautiful there. Watching the
shrimp boats leave and return to Thunderbolt is really great. This is about a
three mile drive from downtown, so try to take one of the bus tours.

Fort Jackson, along the Savannah River, just off of President Street going east

toward the island communities ... about 1 mile from the hist. district, but you

still have to drive there. This is Savannah's revolutionary war-era fort. Much
smaller than Fort Pulaski, but well restored, with many living history
activities the last time I visited. They are famous for their oyster roasts.

Fort Pulaski, east of Savannah on Cockspur Island, on the way to Tybee Island
along US Hwy 80. One of the largest Civil War era forts built. It was designed
by Robert E. Lee when he was a young engineer and recent graduate of West Point

(I think West Point is correct). It is very big, very beautiful, and well
maintained. They have guided tours by costumed docents, and a small museum. It
is a
National Park, so the admission is minimal. The views from the upper ramparts
of the fort are great for seeing the surrounding salt marshes and the delta of
the Savannah River where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean.

Tybee Island Lighthouse, on the north end of Tybee Island. There is only one
road/highway to Tybee ... US Hwy. 80. Drive on 80 until it ends at Butler Ave.,

then turn left and drive towards the lighthouse. The lighthouse and the
keeper's
house are recently renovated and great to visit. You can climb the lighthouse
up to the cat's walk and lantern room. The views are great on a clear day. You
can see Savannah to the west, and Hilton Head Island, SC, to the northeast.

So ... this is probably more than you ever wanted to know about Savannah,
Georgia, but I feel like telling all when people ask for advice when they plan
to
visit. Good luck with the hotels. I don't have to say "Hope you have a great
trip" because I know you will. It is impossible to have a bad time in Savannah.
My
wife and I are going down in March for the big St. Patrick's Day celebration,
and we just can't wait.

As if I didn't send you enough information before ... here are some titles that

I recommend to many people who ask for Savannah travel advice:

Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt

Savannah Spectres by Margaret Wayt Debolt (Just read this one for about the 5th

time.)

Eden on the Marsh: an Illustrated History of Savannah, by Edward Chan Seig (I
see this is out of print now, but your local library might have a copy).

Hope this helps prepare for your trip.
-----------------

I would highly recommend dining at the Pirate House.  It dates
from the mid-18th century and really was a hang out for pirates, as
well as less nefarious seamen!

http://www.thepirateshouse.com

-----------------

There are a number of chain hotels in the historic district.  As far as I
can remember there is a Hampton Inn, a Days Inn and Quality Inn.  These are
all about a block from the waterfront, the shops and restaurants as well as
the Telfair.

Walking around the historic district is interesting and quite beautiful.
The waterfront is quite touristy and  restaurants there are sort of hit and
miss.  I would ask some of the locals in the better stores and  galleries
what they recommend.  There are a number of galleries associated with SCAD
which often have good exhibitions of student work.  There is also a cinema
near SCAD that plays art and other independent films

--------------------
I stayed at a gay-owned bed and breakfast in Savannah
in May, 2001.  The owner was incredibly nice and
cooked lovely breakfasts each morning, and has an
adorable little dog.  The bed and breakfast is about a
ten minute walk from the historic district.  Here's
the website: http://www.912barnard.com/

The rates are very reasonable, too --
$120.00 / night for a one night stay (excluding tax)
$99.00 / night  two nights or more (excluding tax)
and stay six nights get the seventh free.  (I think
the rates are higher for St. Patrick's Day.)

The owner was very friendly, yet I was able to come
and go as I pleased -- it was a very nice vacation.
----------------------

I live not far from Savannah so I will do my best to pass on some info.
The hotel across the river is the Savannah Westin Harbor Resort.  The ferrys
stop running around midnight so if you plan late nights you might want to
try something else.  There are lots of hotels and several B&Bs downtown, but
I don't know about the cost.
Things to do in Savannah, there are quite a few historical things.  Fort
Pulaski and Fort Jackson (civil war era) are both located nearby.  The
Telfair Art museum is also nice.  There are several house museums including
the Juliet Gordon Lowe home (founder of American Girl Scouts).  I would also
reccomend going out to Bonaventure Cemetary and Colonial Cemetary.  The
Wormslowe plantation is also a good place.
There are several good tour companies in town that start from the Visitors
Center.  A couple give you a day pass and let you get on and off at various
locations like City Market, River Street, different squares (Trolley Tours
is the one that pops into mind).



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