The Olypus is nice because it actually has a florescent filter which I have
had good results with. It can be tricky to find in all the buttons and
menus, but it is there. The higher level Olypuses probably have it too,
mine is the cheapest. For major picture taking endeavors we turned off
florescents completely and just had the photo lights. That was nice but
only possible because we had the space. I definitely agree it is best to
get it right the first time. I have heard that CDs do wear out/degradate
over time, but at $1 per you can always make them and remake them. I get
scared of depending on hardrives due to viruses, etc. especially tonight!

And for all the photographers out there I agree that film is the best, I
would always have that for print or real promo stuff but I know where I
have worked our priorities have been to get images in or on boxes for
reference even if they are not perfect. Someone with a good eye and a
digital camera can really boost a big database in a matter of weeks
(espespecially if it not these pesky costumes and 3D thingys).

EW


At 08:00 PM 7/31/01 -0400, you wrote:
>There are some good points in these posts, the 1.3 megapixel number gives
>me a chuckle because back in '97 or so, the Nikon E3s was Nikon's industiral
>photography/commercial digital SLR. Built on an F4 body using a Fuji CCD
>chip...it's res. is 1280x1000 and was a 1.3 megapixel camera basically. By
>the time we got all the battery packs, cards etc. (we have a Nikon system,
>and this camera gives a full view with most lenses, unlike a D1), the cost
>came close to $8000 or so. Then the D1 came out, with twice the res or more,
>and at half the cost...so yeah, digital cameras can drop dramatically in
>price. Just look at the Coolpix cameras, and how every couple of months,
>they drop $100 or so...even the D1 will drop with the new one coming out.
>It's all the price of progress with digital cameras.
>
>I also don't consider a CD or digital media to be a long lasting archival
>format...could just be me....and there's the color fidelity issue as well.
>
>If you shoot film under fluorescent light sources, you'll have a very hard
>time getting an accurate color balance. With a digital camera you should be
>able to tweak the white balance of the camera (most cheap cameras will do
>this now) to match the light source. I'm guessing your Olympus doesn't have
>a fine tune control on it, but you should be able to get close. Fluorescent
>lights are really bad light sources in general....unless they're the
>high-end types used in video work now. If you mix light sources. there will
>problems as well...so if you're using the little strobe on the camera, you
>may be able to trick the camera by gelling the flash with a "plus green"
>filter....just get all the light the same color...
>
>I've found that with shooting with our camera, that it's response is very
>close to shooting chrome film, i.e. very little latitude. You have to nail
>your exposures...fixing an image in photoshop, is very close to fixing it
>in a lab. What I mean is, do it right at first and save yourself the
>headaches.
>
>Kent Thompson,  Photographer
>North Carolina Museum of History
>
>Email: [log in to unmask]
>Opinions expressed in this message may not represent the policy of my
>agency.
>
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