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Subject:
From:
Gary Acord <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Museum discussion list <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Tue, 13 Mar 2001 01:29:45 -0600
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (115 lines)
just a modest comment on the bubble wrap.  it's actually better to double
the bubble with bubbles facing each other.  this way you aren't at risk of
the bubbles creating impressions on your object (the primary reason for
suggesting bubbles out to begin with).  by doubling it in on itself you not
only creating more cushion, but you also reduce the risk of bubbles popping,
which would leave an un protected spot in the packaging.  also, as long as
i'm rambling about bubble, buy the 1/4" bubble instead of the big 1"
bubbles.  if a bubbles does pop (and they do), the exposed area is obviously
smaller.

cheers,
Gary Acord
Acordinfo

-----Original Message-----
From: Museum discussion list [mailto:[log in to unmask]]On
Behalf Of David Frye
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 10:52 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: Packing/Crating of Photographs


Dear Geri , I would say the  best thing to do is to
buy  a roll of glassine , a big wide roll. The
glassine would be used to protect the face of the
photos. after the faces are covered and the glassine
taped carefully (Using a low tack artists tape }to the
back of the strecher. wrap the print in a layerof
plastic , then a layer of  bubble wrap with the
bubbles facing out. The crate can be layed out several
different ways, depending on the money you have and
the method of shipment you intend to use.Many auction
houses for example ship art in crates constructed of
1/2 inch plywood,with 1"x3" framing and 2"x4" cleats.
For a one or two way trip this can be enough. If you
have enough cash build trays these are dividers,with
foam bats,or edging to protect the edges of the
painting. foam surounds the frame and is 1/8 inch
thicker and keeps the art fom shifting in side the
crate.Numbering each tray, and specifying which piece
goes in it helps make packing up the show a snap.Since
the painting is wrapped in glassine ,plastic and
bubble wrap, you can construct the trays from card
board, and blocks of foam.If you are not worried about
money foam core,or better still gator board. When
prints orphotos are hinged you should ride them flat .
These photos are made like paintings so standing them
up is something you should be able to do. Just
remember to measure the thickness of the paintings
after they are wrapped. Provide space for the dividers
or trays ,and add in the thickness of the foam you use
on all 6 sides.Use a two inch foam.Bead board is the
cheapest, museum quality foms run $65.oo for a 4x 8
sheet.Hepa foams, is what i believe they are called
they are grey in color. Non reactive and have a
memory. so the retain their shape. well. hope I've
helped , Good luck, if I can help you further drop me
a line.
--- Geri Thomas <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Dear Colleagues:  We're working with an exhibition
> of photographs that have
> been produced as "exhibition fiber prints" and are
> quite large (up to 60x70"
> and weigh 30-40 lbs. each).  They are mounted flush
> on masonite that has
> been nailed to a wood brace.  The prints wrap around
> the edges of the
> masonite.  What's the best material in which to wrap
> the works, and any
> suggestions for the ideal crate?  Thanks in advance.
>  Cheers!  Geri Thomas,
> President, Thomas & Associates, Inc.
>
>
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