Visiting Korea for the ICOM Conference

This information was prepared primarily for UMAC delegates visiting Korea
for the first time in October 2004.  It was written by Peter Stanbury,
Chair of UMAC, who visited Korea in mid July.  He was shown many relevant
sites by generous Korean hosts from several universities.  His comments may
also be of use to other ICOM members going to Seoul, but his impressions
are those acquired over just three days, and inaccuracies are his errors
alone.


Seoul is a large city in which more than 20 million people live.  In fact
Seoul is the world’s third biggest city, beaten only by Tokyo and Mexico
City.   The surrounding area, like much of Korea, has picturesque small
hills. The city is divided by the Han River, which is crossed above ground
by many bridges and the extensive subway system.  The COEX Centre in the
lower third of the city is south of the river.  As in other big cities,
traffic is a problem and modern buildings outnumber older ones.  Korea has
embraced the technology and style of the west, but has retained a few older
customs such as bowing when meeting or leaving the presence of an equal or
superior colleague or customer.  However, many of the old customs and ways
have disappeared with the older buildings, particularly as far as the young
are concerned.

One suspects that the loss of these is one reason why the theme of the
conference is Traditional Culture and Intangible Heritage.  The 80 or so
university museums in Korea’s 100 plus universities specialise in
presenting the material history of the country from the Palaeolithic era
through the Bronze and Iron Ages, into various Kingdom and Dynasty Periods
right up to the last century.  Archaeological sites, metal objects,
pottery, timber, paintings, writings, maps, musical instruments and
clothing predominate in the displays.
A typical example is found in the museum at Hanyang University in Seoul
where Kidong Bae is Director (also Secretary General of the Organising
Committee for ICOM 2004 and Chair of the Korean Association of University
Museums, KAUM).

Many Korean universities, like those in the west, also have contemporary
art collections.

The university museums in major universities are housed in separate
exhibition galleries in specifically constructed spacious buildings with
well-designed public facilities.
National Museums have similar, but more extensive displays.  Historic
buildings, gates, parks, palaces and temples and folk museums are to be
found throughout the country.

Most people will arrive through Incheon International airport.  This is a
very large single building with 60 departure gates and more shops than you
could visit in an hour or so.  There is free internet access in the
transfer lounges upstairs.  There are also places to exchange money and to
hire or buy phone cards.  (If you are using international roaming, check
carefully that it works in Korea before and upon arrival.)  In the Arrival
Hall look for the ICOM information desks.

Quarantine is strict.  Declare (or preferably do not bring into Korea) any
fruit, meat or agricultural products.

From the airport to the city takes about one hour.  The simplest method is
to catch the City Air Limousine to the City Air Terminal that is attached
to the COEX Centre.  The bus fare is 12,000 won single and 22,000 won
return.  (1 US $ equals about 1,150 won.)

If you are staying in a more distant hotel ask at one of the tourist desks
at the airport for the name of the hotel to be written in Korean so you can
proceed by taxi from the COEX Centre to your destination without hassles.
Translating Korean names into English is complex and different spellings
abound.  The sound of the word may often more reliable than the spelling.

The COEX Centre, where the main ICOM Sessions will be held is huge.  It has
its own shops, transport terminals, hotels and numerous other facilities.

A word or two on Korean food:  at a traditional Korean meal one eats with
metal chopsticks and a spoon; food is served separately in large or small
dishes placed on the table from which one helps oneself.  There may be many
courses, the largest of which comes near the end of the meal. Meat is
usually cut into small pieces, but fish is often served whole. A number of
varieties of soup, including a popular one made from seaweed, are also
usually served.  Rice can be served steamed or cooked longer and served
with soup.  Kimchi is a spicy, hottish pickle made from cabbage and/or
ginger, radish and garlic.  Like chili, it pays to try a small quantity
first to see if it is too your taste.  (A further piece of advice: one
removes one’s shoes when going to a traditional restaurant, a temple, a
private house, a Korean bedroom, so wear shoes which are easy to remove and
presentable socks.)

Korean beer and wines are excellent.  Wine may be mixed with various herbs,
allegedly to promote long life, and provide an interesting range of taste.

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